빈삼 Sen Bin , 염혜정 Haejung Yum

DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.1.1 Vol.24(No.1) 1-14, 2020

Based on the trend of pluralization and globalization the collapse of national borders now is a manifestation of mixed and compromised cultures and societies. It is also emerging as a hybrid fashion in fashion. Hybrid fashion means creating a new image by mixing various cultures beyond the time and space. This study aims to analyze the current state of Chinese fashion design and present its direction by grasping the characteristics of hybrids in the works of rising Chinese fashion designers in the era of pluralization. The research method was literature review and empirical research. According to the selection criteria of new fashion designers, 6 new fashion designers of 5 fashion brands were selected and their total 458 points works were analyzed. The analysis results are as follows. First, most of the time trade-offs were 'past and present' trade-offs that express Chinese traditional culture and the image of the past with modern design. The trade-offs between 'present and future' is expressed by mixing print patterns, colors and light with fractal art. Second, spatial trade-offs was expressed in the way of expressing Chinese themes in the composition of western clothing, expressing the Western themes in oriental colors, and inspired by Japanese culture expressed by deconstructionism, Third, the gender mix mainly used dark embroidery on women's clothing, while the men's wear showed a delicate feminine charm with a surreal pattern on thin and transparent gauze fabric.

박진희 Jinhee Park , 김주용 Jooyong Kim

DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.1.15 Vol.24(No.1) 15-28, 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop and propose creative smart bags in emotional e-textiles using LEDs that inform smartphone users of motion-induced luminescence and ringing of cell phones. The LED light-emitting operation tasks produced in the study were applied to each of the three design smart bags, setting the five cases of luminance by a call initiated, absent phone, rejecting answering phone, texting, and motion-induced luminescence. In the male laptop bags of LED luminous images using wappen, 10 LEDs could be separated by a total of three pins to display the luminous mode, and all 10 LEDs became a total of five luminous patterns, including all that illuminate and those that illuminate randomly. E-wappen rendered the motif a strong sense of visibility and performed six roles on phone rings and texting. To develop a women's tote bag, we did a laser cut and attached the leather strips and placed 10 triangular LEDs to form a geometric LED e-textile. It provides the possibility of transforming simple design from traditional fashion into a more interesting and various smart designs. An entertainment smart bag using graphic design was constructed by applying a tilt sensor to look like a light in the night sky by shaking and moving the bag. The graphic design and composition of LEDs indicate that LEDs and fashion item are applied in harmony rather than heterogeneous, enabling them to be applied as fashion-oriented wearable smart products.

남영란 Young-ran Nam , 이은영 Eunyoung Lee

DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.1.29 Vol.24(No.1) 29-42, 2020

The purpose of this study is to analyze the body size and body characteristics of short-statured females in their 20s and 30s using direct measurement data from the 7th size Korea, and to analyze the differences in body dimensions and proportions between the regular and tall groups of short groups. The goal is to identify the dimension areas that need attention when designing and grading patterns for this short groups. As a result, it was found that the short group was shorter in height than the regular group, and the circumferential dimension was similar to the regular group. When designing patterns the tops, the grading of the Bust point-bust point is not necessary for the height, and it is not necessary to grade the Neck point to breast point in the short and regular group. These groups showed a difference in the front silhouette but not in the side silhouette. Based on these findings, the body types were classified into the following three types: 'most bulky and heavy', 'long lower body and small shoulder', and 'small and thin'. The type 1 population was the least distributed, and the relatively small and slim type was the most common. It is expected that the results of this study can be used as a reference when setting pattern designs, grading values, and production ratios by size for short women.

김소라 Sora Kim , 이금희 Keumhee Lee

DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.1.43 Vol.24(No.1) 43-59, 2020

The purpose of this study is to examine the design of Paul Smith based on characteristics of the Britishness. Britishness formed according to the national character to encompass the lifestyles and traits of individual people through a shared natural environment and historic experiences within the national boundaries of the U.K., amid current global trends toward gigantic single market. In every season, Paul Smith is presenting various authentic tailored suits, reflecting the empirical positivism, characterized by traditional conservatism through contemporary reinterpretation, characteristic individualism through a reproduction of the sub-culture, optimistic naturalism through fabric and printing on the basis of the Britishness. This study analyzed the characteristics of the Paul Smith brand distinguished through its unique highlights of strong symbolism of the well-balanced U.K., with very individualistic and innovative ideas presenting basic and methodical research of Britishness. Additionally, the results of this study are expected to facilitate in establishing the identity of the fashion brand and exploring its direction, and it will also provide a crucial basis to seek the methods to express the identity of Korean culture in this era of globalization, setting a new course for the fashion industry.

한재휘 Jaehwi Han , 이은진 Eunjin Lee

DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.1.60 Vol.24(No.1) 60-74, 2020

A Podaegi is a square cloth used to carry a baby. Podaegi was an essential necessity for raising baby. However currently Koreans prefer baby-carriers, baby hip-seats, and equipments other than Podaegi. Recently, Podaegi is becoming popular around the world. Therefore, it is necessary to study Podaegi to inform Korea's traditional parenting culture product. In this research, 230 images of Podaegi were collected from paintings, photographs, postcards, films and artifacts from the late 18th century to 2000. The period of study was divided into three phases from the late Joseon Dynasty to before the opening of the port, from the opening of the port to before the liberation, and from the liberation to 2000. Types of Podaegi were categorized according to its shape and how to use. Transition process of Podaegi was examined. Podaegis were categorized into band type, blanket type, combination type, cheone type, modern type, and so on. From the late Joseon Dynasty to before the pre-openings, band type was used. From the opening of the port to liberation, all types of Podaegi appeared. Since the liberation, the use of band and blanket type has gradually decreased. Modern types have been the most popular since the 1960s. Materials of Podaegi became varied and Podaegi became a fashion-item. Later, modern Podaegi became the representative form of Korean traditional Podaegi.

이청순 Chungsun Lee , 이승희 Seunghee Lee

DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.1.75 Vol.24(No.1) 75-87, 2020

The purpose of this study is to find trends in new media fashion content by analyzing the fashion content of the official Instagram accounts of domestic fashion magazines that are being transformed by digital media. The framework for these analysis of fashion content type and methods of production is based on one used in an earlier research project. Empirical analysis is conducted on Vogue Korea’s official Instagram accounts, using the highest number of major views as the secondary measure of interest. After screening for fashion content in posts on the Vogue Korea account for four months, 291 short video postings were extracted to analyze the number of views the postings received. The results were categorized as ‘star’, ‘show/exhibition’, ‘product’, ‘shop’, ‘fashion film’, ‘designer’, or ‘event’, included in the data are the number of postings by type and the number of views by post. Based on the characteristics of the creator and the editing, the posts were classified into ‘professional production highlight’, ‘professional production private’, ‘UCC’ or ‘GIF’ videos, the number of views per post were also collected. The research results show different levels of interest depending on the type of fashion content, and also on the way the videos were produced. The study also investigated how the combination of these two factors affects interest. When producing a new media fashion content, combining a ‘star’ type post with ‘professional production private’ video content was most popular. The selection of production method is therefore important even given the same type of content.

정연이 Yeonyi Jung , 이영재 Youngjae Lee

DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.1.88 Vol.24(No.1) 88-101, 2020

The music videos of BTS go beyond the limit of media promoting music and shows their meaning in various ways and complete the visual message of music through fashion style. BTS' fashion style in the music videos shows a change in symbolic representation of the genre of each album and song, of which gender images are changing aligned with the music messages of BTS. The purpose of this study was to derive gender images of fashion style in BTS music videos and to interpret their meaning based on Judith Butler's theory that performativity creates discourse through iterative process. It is conducted as a research method, an analytical study was conducted in parallel with literature studies and empirical case analysis. The scope of the study was limited to 301 costumes that appeared in 21 official music videos from debut single album '2Cool 4 Skool' released in 2013 to the mini album 'Map of the Soul: Persona' released in 2019. As a result of the analysis, the controversial fashion style, challenging fashion style, boyish fashion style, hybrid fashion style, the playful fashion style were revealed. The conclusion of studying the gender image of BTS, interpreted by this analysis using Judith Butler's theory, is as follows. The gender image of BTS is the traditional image that identifies with the dominant gender discourse, the resistive gender image that intentionally distances mainstream culture, the eclectic image parodying the gender of the opposing term, and the deconstructive image that transcends the dominant gender discourse.

이은실 Eunsil Lee , 김은실 Eunsil Kim

DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.1.102 Vol.24(No.1) 102-116, 2020

After its introduction in Korea, nail art is becoming active, especially among women in their 20s and 30s who are interested in fashion and beauty. Although self-nail tips are available online in various designs for each brand that is currently on the market, these designs and sizes of self-nail tips on the market are different for each age group. Since the design or size is not suggested for the different situations, there are difficulties in purchasing products that match the shape and size of nails of consumers. In this study, frequency analysis was performed using 'SPSS statistics 21.0 for windows program' to analyze data obtained by direct measurement method and 3D scanner measurement method for Korean women in their 20s. For comparative analysis between direct and 3D scanner measurements, a corresponding sample, 'T-test', was performed. As a result, we proposed the standardization of nail tip size after comparative analysis between direct measurement and 3D scanner measurement. Previous studies have been proceeding with direct measurement method. However, this study introduced a 3D scanner measurement method in the nail field and attempted the standardization of nail size by age group of Korean women. Importantly, this sutdy suggests standardization of nail tip size among missing body sizes.