A Proposal for Sustainable Design Using Neo-Deconstructivist Principles
신 해체주의 디자인 특성을 활용한 지속가능한 디자인 제안
김지혜 Jihye Kim
30(3) 1-15, 2026
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.1
김지혜 Jihye Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.1
Abstract
This study focuses on neo-deconstructionism and sustainability, which have become significant values in contemporary fashion. Sustainability arises from a sense of responsibility for the social and environmental impacts of products throughout their lifecycle, from planning to production and consumption. The aim of this study is to understand how neo-deconstructionist design is applied to fashion, to derive expressive techniques, and to explore the integration of the aesthetic values of neo-deconstructionism with the principles of sustainability. The findings are as follows: the development of designs that incorporate playfulness, diversity, and recreation―key expressive modes of neo-deconstructionism―aligns with sustainability values and demonstrates the feasibility of creative design proposals through resource circulation. Additionally, the use of deadstock and recycled materials indicates positive potential for both the uniqueness and practicality of these works. Consequently, it is anticipated that sensuous and distinctive fashion design products can be proposed. However, for the fashion industry to be restructured, it is essential to create value that corresponds with the labor costs involved in the recycling process and to enhance consumer awareness. Ultimately, with the active social participation of value-driven consumers, it is expected that the intersection of neo-deconstructionism―which reflects environmental concerns, diversity, and the subcultures of everyday street fashion―will enable consumers to express their individuality, while companies can propose circularity and unique styles in fashion and actively incorporate sustainability into their operations.
Key Words
neo-deconstruction fashion, sustainability, sustainable fashion, upcycling, Monse, 신 해체주의, 지속가능성, 지속가능한 패션, 업사이클링, 몬세
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Pattern Development for Shirt-Collar Blouse for Women with Large Busts: Focused on Women with Bra Cup Sizes C and Above
큰 가슴 여성의 셔츠 칼라 블라우스 패턴 개발 : 브래지어 C컵 이상 여성을 중심으로
나승정 Seungjung Na , 차수정 Sujoung Cha
30(3) 16-35, 2026
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.16
나승정 Seungjung Na , 차수정 Sujoung Cha
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.16
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to develop a pattern drafting method for shirt-collar blouses that accommodates the body characteristics of women with large busts. Two female participants with C-cup bra sizes were selected, and the initial experimental shirt-collar blouse was created using the ESMOD torso sloper and existing pattern drafting techniques. Over three rounds of prototype development, appearance evaluations were conducted from the front, side, and back views, leading to repeated revisions based on the evaluation results. In the first appearance evaluation, both participants reported poor fit in most aspects, particularly in terms of front bust gaping, lifting of the center front line, and the shapes of the armhole and side seam. Consequently, the second and third prototypes were revised by adjusting the underarm point, increasing bust ease, converting the gaping at the bust area into darts, modifying the front and back shoulder slope and length, and correcting the front drop amount. As a result, the second prototype demonstrated overall improvement in fit, although some aspects were still deemed inappropriate. In the third prototype, both participants received high ratings for all appearance evaluation items from the front, side, and back views. Based on these findings, a final pattern drafting method for shirt-collar blouses tailored for women with large busts was proposed. This study provides essential data for developing blouse patterns that enhance fit and silhouette for women with large busts.
Key Words
blouse pattern, fit improvement, patternmaking, shirts collar, women with large busts, 블라우스 패턴, 맞음새 개선, 패턴제작, 셔츠 칼라, 큰 가슴 여성
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Classification of Leg Types Based on Thigh, Calf, and Ankle Morphological Indices in Men Aged 40-59 for Sports Pants Design
운동용 바지 설계를 위한 40-59세 남성의 허벅지·종아리·발목 형태지수 기반 다리 유형화
차수정 Sujoung Cha
30(3) 36-52, 2026
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.36
차수정 Sujoung Cha
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.36
Abstract
This study aimed to analyze leg measurements and morphological indices of men in their 40s and 50s, identify the factors influencing leg shape, and classify leg types to provide essential data for the developing well-fitted sports pants. We conducted descriptive statistics, independent t-tests, factor analysis, cluster analysis, and cross-tabulation analysis. The results indicated that men in their 40s generally had larger leg length and volume measurements compared to those in their 50s, suggesting age-related reductions in these dimensions. Factor analysis identified four key factors: size and volume, leg proportion, calf morphology, and leg length. Cluster analysis categorized leg shapes into four types: large and balanced volume, slim long-leg, developed calf, and short and disproportionate small-leg types. Notable differences in type distribution were observed between age groups; men in their 40s had a higher proportion of the slim long-leg and developed calf types, while men in their 50s had a greater proportion of the short and disproportionate small-leg type. These findings indicate that leg shape is influenced not only by size but also by proportion, length, and calf morphology. Consequently, sports pants design should move beyond a waist-centered sizing system and adopt a body-type-based approach that incorporates leg-type-specific patterns, three-dimensional calf shaping, and differentiated fit and elasticity tailored to different body regions.
Key Words
anthropometric indices, leg morphology, lower body shape, 40∼50s men, 형태지수, 다리 형태, 하반신 체형, 40∼50대 남성
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A Study on the Application and Expressive Characteristics of Biomaterials in Fashion Design: Focusing on Gelatin, Sodium Alginate, Kombucha, and Agricultural By-products
생물 기반 재료의 의상디자인 적용과 표현특성에 관한 연구: 젤라틴, 알긴산나트륨, 콤부차 및 폐농산물을 중심으로
장정시 Jingsi Zhang , 이영재 Youngjae Lee
30(3) 53-76, 2026
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.53
장정시 Jingsi Zhang , 이영재 Youngjae Lee
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.53
Abstract
As the global fashion industry accelerates its transition toward sustainability, biodegradable bio-based materials, which are capable of decomposing in natural environments, have attracted increasing attention in the fields of materials science and design and have become an important subject of research. Through a literature review and case analysis, this study systematically examines theories related to bio-based materials derived from gelatin, sodium alginate, kombucha, and discarded agricultural by-products. Based on previous studies, four expressive characteristics are identified: dyeing, texture, modularization, and material hybridization. On this basis, focusing on the design cases of Iris van Herpen, Mata Durikovic, and Zhang Ruixi, this study analyzes the application methods and expressive characteristics of different bio-based materials in fashion design. The findings reveal that bio-based materials present distinct differences in expressive potential depending on their type. Gelatin, with its excellent film-forming ability and extensibility, is suitable for creating translucent color effects and three-dimensional textures. Sodium alginate can form surfaces with wrinkles and organic textures through gelation. Kombucha-based materials can form leather-like membrane structures after cultivation and present a naturally aged appearance. Discarded agricultural by-product-based materials can retain natural particles and fibrous characteristics. In addition, through the analysis of design cases, this study confirms that bio-based materials are not merely environmentally friendly substitutes in sustainable fashion, but important design media capable of generating color, shaping texture, constructing form, and conveying design concepts.
Key Words
bio-based biomaterials, costume design, expressive characteristics, sustainable fashion, biodegradable materials, 생물 기반 재료, 의상디자인, 표현 특성, 지속가능 패션, 생분해성 재료
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A Study on the Design Characteristics of Genderless Design in Korean Women's Designer Brands: Focused on the Years 20212025
한국 여성복 디자이너 브랜드의 젠더리스 디자인 특성 연구: 20212025년을 중심으로
손리 Sun Li , 이영재 Youngjae Lee
30(3) 77-97, 2026
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.77
손리 Sun Li , 이영재 Youngjae Lee
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.77
Abstract
This study explores the characteristics and developmental trajectories of genderless design in Korean women's wear designer brands. Five representative brands―LOW CLASSIC, RECTO, Andersson Bell, pushBUTTON, and OPEN YY―were selected for analysis, focusing on a total of 468 genderless design samples from the 2021 S/S to 2025 F/W collections. Employing literature review and case analysis methods, the study examined four design elements: silhouette, color, materials, and pattern. The findings indicate that genderless design is characterized by straight silhouettes, achromatic and neutral color palettes, structurally supportive materials, and minimal pattern expression, reflecting a trend towards simplified and de-decorated designs. Additionally, each brand has developed its unique approach to genderless expression through various design strategies. A comparative analysis of the selected brands suggests that genderless design in Korean women's wear has evolved into a multidimensional system characterized by eclecticism, subjectivity, inclusivity, and practicality. These findings lay the groundwork for understanding genderless fashion design in contemporary Korea.
Key Words
korean women’s wear, designer brands, genderless design, fashion design, 한국 여성복, 디자이너 브랜드, 젠더리스 디자인, 패션 디자인
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An Exploratory Case Study on Online and Blended Delivery Models for Practice-Based Courses in Fashion Styling: Implications for K-Culture Industry Talent Development
패션스타일리스트과 실기 교과의 온라인·블렌디드 운영 모델에 관한 탐색적 사례 연구 : K-컬처 산업 인재 양성을 위한 수업 설계, LMS, 학습 인정 체계를 중심으로
김혜리 Hye Ree Kim
30(3) 98-109, 2026
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.98
김혜리 Hye Ree Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.98
Abstract
This study investigates online and blended delivery models for practice-based courses in the Department of Fashion Styling through an exploratory case study of three pilot courses: Fashion Solution, Pattern Making and Sewing 2, and Costume Making Project. It analyzes online practice-based education in relation to instructional design, LMS functions, learning processes, and learning recognition systems. Quantitative data were evaluated using paired-sample t-tests based on pre- and post-competency scores from 50 matched samples across the three courses. Qualitative data were collected through two focus group interviews with twelve students and analyzed thematically. The findings reveal that the effectiveness of online instruction varies depending on the production medium, learning task, and degree of physical material dependency. Based on these findings, the study proposes three types of online and blended practice-based instruction: digital-transfer, remote-supplementary, and process-sharing. The digital-transfer type is ideal for document-based and screen-sharing tasks, the remote-supplementary type necessitates visual feedback and in-person support, and the process-sharing type enhances project learning through process documentation and portfolio archiving. The study recommends that LMS infrastructure should facilitate process archiving, visual annotation, mobile accessibility, and portfolio-based learning evidence. It also outlines implications for process-based assessment, learning recognition, and talent development in the K-Culture industry within higher vocational education.
Key Words
practice-based fashion education, online practice-based instruction, blended learning model, process-based assessment, learning management system, 패션 실기 교육, 온라인 실기 수업, 블렌디드 러닝 모델, 과정 기반 평가, 학습관리 시스템
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A Study on the Structure of Fashion Capital Formation through Brand Experience in Pop-up Stores: Focusing on Instagram-Based Analysis
팝업스토어 브랜드 경험을 통한 패션자본의 형성 구조 연구 : 인스타그램 기반 분석을 중심으로
백정현 Jeonghyun Baek
30(3) 110-134, 2026
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.110
백정현 Jeonghyun Baek
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.110
Abstract
This study aimed to explore how fashion pop-up stores function as a form of brand cultural capital across aesthetic, material, and social dimensions, and how they contribute to consumers' perceptions and evaluations of brands by providing diverse opportunities for brand experiences beyond simple purchasing. To this end, we conducted case studies of domestic fashion pop-up stores from 2021 to 2024, alongside an analysis of visitors' Instagram posts. This approach allowed us to examine the types of brand experiences and the structure linking these experiences to fashion capital formation. The case analysis included 45 instances across 11 regions, such as The Hyundai Seoul, Seongsu, Apgujeong, and Cheongdam, which are identified as the most active locations for fashion pop-up store events. The Instagram analysis was conducted in two rounds during January and March 2025, using keywords that combined 18 brand names with pop-up titles. We collected data from 366 visit cases, focusing on hashtags, images, and text. Frequency analysis and cross-tabulation were employed to examine hashtag patterns, post types, and visitor experience characteristics. Brand experiences were classified into four types: sensory-aesthetic experience, brand-cognitive experience, participatory experience, and relationship-expanding experience. The formation of fashion capital was presented in three forms: embodied fashion capital, objectified fashion capital, and social fashion capital. Drawing on Bourdieu's theory of cultural capital, we found that sensory-aesthetic and participatory experiences corresponded to embodied fashion capital, while brand-cognitive experiences aligned with objectified fashion capital. Social fashion capital was conceptualized as an expanded notion encompassing networks, institutionalized relationships, and social bonding.
Key Words
fashion pop-up store, brand experience, fashion capital, Instagram, 패션 팝업스토어, 브랜드 경험, 패션자본, 인스타그램
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Reconstructing Genderless Masculinity in Luxury Brand Advertising Images Featuring K-pop Male Idols : Fashion Styling and Brand Image Strategy
K-pop 남성 아이돌의 럭셔리 브랜드 광고 이미지에 나타난 젠더리스 남성성 재구성 : 패션 스타일링과 브랜드 이미지 전략
염혜수 Hyesoo Yeom , 서승희 Seunghee Suh
30(3) 135-148, 2026
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.135
염혜수 Hyesoo Yeom , 서승희 Seunghee Suh
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.135
Abstract
This study examines how luxury brand advertisements featuring K-pop male idols visually reconstruct genderless masculinity and how recurring brand codes influence this expression. The analysis focuses on 24 looks from 2023 across four collaborations: BTS Jimin × Dior, Stray Kids Felix × Louis Vuitton, Stray Kids Hyunjin × Versace, and ENHYPEN × Prada. Each look serves as the unit of analysis, utilizing a theory-oriented qualitative content analysis that combines descriptive coding of clothing form, body styling, and body presentation with a 0-3 pattern coding system across four dimensions: modification of menswear structure and authority, relocation of gender-coded signs, presentation of the male body, and control of gender-marker visibility. Scores of 2 or higher were recorded in 12, 11, 14, and 8 looks, respectively. These scores led to the identification of four analytical types: Softened Menswear-Structure, Recontextualized Feminine-Sign, Aestheticized Male- Body, and Restrained Gender-Marker. The Jimin-Dior collaboration emphasized softened menswear, while Felix-Louis Vuitton highlighted recontextualized feminine signs. The Hyunjin-Versace collaboration combined male-body aestheticization with support for feminine signs, and ENHYPEN-Prada integrated restrained gender markers with selective body aestheticization. Additionally, brand codes were analyzed to organize these visual strategies, focusing on reframed menswear heritage, cross-gender womenswear extension, ornament-body integration, and minimalist collective coherence. This study proposes a look- based framework that connects visual evidence, coding patterns, types of masculinity, and brand image strategy within the examined corpus.
Key Words
K-pop male idols, luxury brand advertising images, genderless masculinity, fashion styling, brand image strategy K-pop 남성 아이돌, 럭셔리 브랜드 광고 이미지, 젠더리스 남성성, 패션 스타일링, 브랜드 이미지 전략
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A Study on Core Style Fashion Accessory Design Using Eco-Printing: Focusing on Color and Texture Characteristics According to Mordant Composition
에코 프린팅을 활용한 코어 스타일 패션 소품 디자인 연구: 매염제 조성에 따른 색채 및 질감 특성을 중심으로
진우하 Yu He Chen , 김차현 Chahyun Kim
30(3) 149-162, 2026
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.149
진우하 Yu He Chen , 김차현 Chahyun Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.149
Abstract
This study investigates the expressive potential of eco-printing techniques in fashion accessory design by analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of core styles, specifically Cottagecore and Goblincore. It examines how eco-printing combined with natural motif-based design can expand visual expression through variations in mordant composition and textile interaction. The research was conducted through literature review, case analysis, experimental dyeing using plant-based materials, and the development of fashion scarf designs. Alum, copper gluconate, and iron lactate were applied as single and combined mordants to evaluate their effects on color tone, contrast, and pattern formation across natural fibers including organza, silk, and wool. The results showed that alum produced bright and warm yellow tones, copper-based mordants generated earthy brown and green hues, and iron lactate created deep, dark tones with strong contrast and pronounced pattern effects. Based on these findings, eight scarf designs were developed. Cottagecore-inspired works emphasized bright color palettes, soft textures, and symmetrical botanical patterns to express pastoral and romantic natural imagery. In contrast, Goblincore-inspired works emphasized low-saturation tones, irregular organic patterns, and weathered textures, visualizing decay, imperfection, and temporality in nature. The findings demonstrate that eco-printing is an effective medium for producing differentiated aesthetic expressions through mordant variation and material interaction. The study further suggests that eco-printing can be expanded beyond a dyeing technique into a sustainable and expressive design language for contemporary fashion accessory development.
Key Words
eco-printing, core style fashion, cottagecore, goblincore, mordant composition, 에코 프린팅, 코어 스타일 패션, 코티지코어, 고블린코어, 매염제 조성
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Development of a 3D Digital Garment Observation Framework Based on Virtual Clothing Simulation
가상착의 시뮬레이션을 중심으로 한 3D 디지털 의상 관찰 워크프레임 개발
임소영 Soyung Im
30(3) 163-178, 2026
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.163
임소영 Soyung Im
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2026.30.3.163
Abstract
This study identifies the distinctive characteristics of observing digital garments in 3D virtual fitting simulations and proposes a corresponding observation framework. It examines how visual perception differs between real and virtual fittings presented as photographs and videos and considers the implications of these differences for evaluating digital fashion images. Real and 3D digital garments were presented as photographic and video stimuli. The descriptive responses of 14 fashion majors were analyzed through qualitative content analysis using open coding, focused coding, and a cross-sectional analysis matrix. Three distinctive observation characteristics emerged. First, body perception was localized, with attention focused on the upper body and torso rather than the whole body. Second, visually prominent effects, including flow lines, flare, and luster, were emphasized over structural lines, producing a perceptual bias toward lines, shapes, and surfaces that accentuated visual effects. Third, changes in direction and shape were partially unrecognized in videos, indicating incomplete cognitive closure. Media conditions functioned as higher-order variables: photographs emphasized static visual effects, whereas videos condensed movement into cycles. Within these conditions, real garments exhibited body-led traction, while virtual garments exhibited garment-led traction. Based on these findings, a 3D digital garment observation framework comprising media conditions, body, garment, bodygarment relationship, and cognitive closure was proposed. This study extends garment observation research into digital fashion environments and establishes 3D digital garments in virtual fitting simulations as an independent subject of inquiry.
Key Words
3D digital garment, virtual fitting simulation, garment observation, visual perception, observation workframe, 3D 디지털 의상, 가상착의 시뮬레이션, 의상 관찰, 관찰 워크프레임
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