A Study on the Fahion Design of MÜNN from the Perspective of Defamiliarization
낯설게 하기(Defamiliarization)를 통해 본 Münn의 패션 디자인 고찰
임보연 Boyeon Lim , 김지영 Jiyoung Kim
26(4) 1-17, 2022
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.1
임보연 Boyeon Lim , 김지영 Jiyoung Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.1
Abstract
In the fashion industry, the demand for new perspectives to express creativity has always been high. Expression of new perspectives allows creative ideas to emerge, thereby breaking away from habitual and familiar perceptions. The purpose of this study is to identify and analyze how the theory of defamiliarization is being applied in fashion design by the brand Münn, which claims defamiliarization as a design philosophy. The study examined the concepts and the characteristics of Viktor Shklovsky by literature review and derived the main characteristics of the defamiliarization theory for fashion design analysis based on studies that used defamiliarization in other fields. Furthermore, after analyzing Münn’s collection, we found how the main characteristics of defamiliarization derived from reviews were expressed in Münn’s designs. The defamiliarization in Münn’s collection was first, ‘breakaway from stereotype’ appeared through re-recognition of perception and unexpected use of heterogeneous materials. Second, ‘distortion and analogy through image’ was revealed through the East and West clothing-making methods, which broke away from the stereotype of image and the juxtaposition and cultural reconstruction of details. Third, ‘transition of viewpoint’ was shown as an avant-garde sense through the conversion of usage purpose of design, material, or items in which subjects and objects were converted with conceptual design and material or silhouette.
Key Words
defamiliarization, Viktor Shklovsky, Münn, Russian formalism, fashion design, 낯설게 하기, 빅토르 쉬클로프스키, 뮌, 러시아 형식주의, 패션디자인
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A Study on the Sacai Fashion Designs Analyzed with the Redesign Perspectives
리디자인(Redesign) 관점으로 분석한 사카이(Sacai) 패션디자인의 유형에 관한 연구
서여 Xu Yi , 김민지 Minji Kim
26(4) 18-31, 2022
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.18
서여 Xu Yi , 김민지 Minji Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.18
Abstract
Fashion is one of the main environmental pollution industries. To reduce pollution, much of the deadstock clothes are given a new value by being redesigning based on the designer's competency. This study aims to promote the revitalization of redesigning by analyzing and presenting hybrid design characteristics of the Sacai design collection, as a redesigning brand, and formative element characteristics of redesigning. A theoretical study using previous research on redesigning and related books and an empirical study analyzing the Sacai Collection were conducted. Based on the study results, there are four types of redesigning processes; recombination of heterogeneous clothing structure, reorganization by reversed function and position, reorganized composition by material processing, and mixing of heterogeneous materials. In the recombination of heterogeneous clothing structures, heterogeneous materials and structures coexist by combining the clothing components with other clothing elements. The second is the reconstruction by subversion. The third is reconstruction by material processing. The fourth is a mixture of disparate materials. This study has innovative redesign features from Sacai designs, and there are plans for a follow-up study that will analyze the work of another designer who is recognized for the excellence in redesigning.
Key Words
sustainable fashion, Re-design, recycling, Sacai, hybrid fashion design, 지속가능한 패션, 리디자인, 재활용, 사카이, 하이브리드 패션디자인
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Characteristics of Neo-Deconstructivism in Modern Men's Fashion Bags -Focusing on the 2019 S/S~2021 S/S Men's Collection-
현대 남성 패션 가방에 나타난 신해체주의 특성 -2019 S/S~2021 S/S 남성 컬렉션을 중심으로-
홍윤정 Yunjung Hong , 김리라 Rira Kim
26(4) 32-51, 2022
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.32
홍윤정 Yunjung Hong , 김리라 Rira Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.32
Abstract
This study analyzed the characteristics and expression techniques of men's fashion bags and their aesthetic and formative values in modern men's fashion from the perspective of neo-deconstructivism. The study subjects were men's fashion bags appearing in four collections in Paris, Milan, London, and New York in the 2019 S/S-2021 S/S season. As a research method, the characteristics and expression techniques of the new disintegration of men's fashion bags were analyzed and categorized through prior research and literature research. The results of the study are as follows: First, the neoclassical characteristics of men's fashion bags caused 'Re-creation' to appear as the dissolution of the design principle and structure of the bag, and it was derived as 'decomposition of form' and 'decomposition of dress method'. Second, the 'Inclusive Diversity' of modern men's fashion bags of neo-deconstructivism appears in the form of gender demarcation and dissonance coordination. Third, 'Playfulness' in men's fashion bags involves the pursuit of fun through unconventional changes in the shape, size, and design of the bag, and it sometimes provides a fresh, new play experience through unpredictable design elements. Fourth, the 'Pursuit of new values' in male's fashion bags was a characteristic wherein the boundary between DIY attire and daily clothes and high fashion by the individual selection of consumers was blurred. This work is meaningful in that it conducted a basic study of men's fashion bags by examining the modern men's fashion bag from the perspective of the philosophical trend of neo-deconstructivism and categorizing its characteristics.
Key Words
fashion bag, neo-deconstructivism, menswear, men’s fashion, 패션 가방, 신해체주의, 남성복, 남성 패션
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Effect of Information Source, Sales Promotion Type, and Impulse Buying Tendency Characteristics on Fashion Live Commerce Purchase Intention
정보원 특성, 판매촉진유형, 충동구매성향이 패션 라이브커머스 구매의도에 미치는 영향
최현 Hyun Choi , 황선진 Sun Jin Hwang
26(4) 52-63, 2022
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.52
최현 Hyun Choi , 황선진 Sun Jin Hwang
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.52
Abstract
As live commerce, mobile sales platforms based on real-time content and text are drawing attention as a new marketing channel. In particular, the fashion industry also using live commerce as a new fashion distribution channel, requiring marketing strategies to utilize it efficiently. This study attempted to verify the effect of information source, sales promotion, and impulse buying tendency characteristics on fashion live commerce purchase intention. The experimental design of this study was 2(characteristics of information source: expertise vs attractiveness) x 2(sales promotion type: value-added vs price discount) x 2(impulse buying tendency: high vs low) three-way mixed analysis of variance(ANOVA). A convenience sampling of 264 women in their 20s and 50s living in Seoul and the Gyeonggi area who had purchased products through Live Commerce was conducted. For the final analysis, 240 questionnaires were used. Data were analyzed by the SPSS 26 program and three-way ANOVA. Simple main effects analysis was conducted. The results of this study follow. First, there were statistically significant differences in purchase intention according to consumers' impulse buying tendencies and sales promotions. Second, information source and sales promotion showed statistically significant interaction effects on purchase intention. Lastly, information source, sales promotion, and impulse buying tendency showed significant three-way interaction effects on fashion live commerce purchase intention. Therefore, conducting appropriate marketing analysis can result in positive attitudes regarding live commerce products and substantive increases in sales.
Key Words
characteristics of information source, sales promotion type, impulse buying tendency, fashion live commerce, purchase intention, 정보원 특성, 판매촉진유형, 충동구매성향, 패션 라이브커머스, 구매의도
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Study on the Priorities of Fashion Technology Development for Small-Scale Fashion Designer Brands using IPA Analysis
IPA 분석을 통한 패션 소상공인 디자이너 브랜드를 위한 패션테크 개발 우선순위 도출
장세윤 Seyoon Jang , 이유리 Yuri Lee , 김하연 Ha Youn Kim
26(4) 64-82, 2022
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.64
장세윤 Seyoon Jang , 이유리 Yuri Lee , 김하연 Ha Youn Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.64
Abstract
This study aimed to explore fashion technologies for small-scale designer brands and reveal the priorities of the derived fashion technologies. Interviews were conducted with owners of 15 designer brands to explore fashion technologies needed in the field based on the business operation stage (study 1), and an online survey of owners of 61 designer brands was conducted to verify their priorities (study 2). A total of 12 fashion technologies were derived from study 1, including 2 market analysis stages, 6 season planning stages, and 4 product operation stages. In study 2, importance and satisfaction were measured with 12 fashion techniques derived from study 1, and importance-performance analysis (IPA) was performed. The technologies of product management with image tagging and sales channel matching were considered to be the fashion technologies that should be developed first. Second, in the case of maintenance, demand prediction and price determination were applicable. Third, over-effort avoidance was revealed through market analysis and design generation. Finally, in automatic product detail page creation and digital marketing, development was the lowest priority. The results of this study are expected to provide insight into priority areas for fashion technology developers and policy departments providing emerging brand support.
Key Words
small-scale fashion designer brand, fashion tech, online business, importance-performance analysis, 패션 소상공인 디자이너 브랜드, 패션테크, 온라인 비즈니스, 중요도-실행도 분석
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Meanings and Characteristics of Seoul Jaesugut Shaman’s Costumes
서울 재수굿 무속복식의 의미 및 특징
서승희 Seunghee Suh , 박정주 Jeongju Park
26(4) 83-99, 2022
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.83
서승희 Seunghee Suh , 박정주 Jeongju Park
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.83
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to analyze the form and meaning of shaman's costumes worn by each gutgeori in Seoul jaesugut and to derive the characteristics of Shaman's costume at gutgeori. Observational research was conducted for three years by participating in the site of two types of gut, which are divided into local jaesugut for the well-being of the region and individual jaesugut that takes place based on personal request. Seoul jaesugut consists of 12 different gutgeori according to the deity it serves and meaning: Bujeongcheongbae, Gamangcheongbae, Bulsageori, Sangeori, Josanggeori, Sangsangeori, Byulsanggeori, Sinjanggeori, Daegamgeori, Seongjugeori, Changbugeori, and Duitjeon. The shape and colour of the shaman's costume worn in each gutgeori are related to the meaning of the gutgeori. Followings are the characteristics of the shaman’s costume from gutgeori. First, shaman's costume adopted traditional costumes that symbolized the characteristics of god represented in each gutgeori. Second, gutgeori consists of multiple gods, and shaman's costumes were adopt to represent the superior god among these gods. Third, sometimes the costumes were adopted according to the characteristic of the god instead of its divinity. Fourth, even if the gods were different, if the roles of the gods were the same, the same form of shaman's costume could be taken. Fifth, the process of gut showed the harmony of yin and yang using the principle of five elements through the colour of shaman's costume.
Key Words
gut, Seoul jaesugut, shaman, shaman’s costume, shamanism, 굿, 서울 재수굿, 무당, 무속복식, 무속신앙
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A Study on the Commercial Potential of Natural Dyeing of Functional Lyocell Containing Zinc Oxide
산화아연 함유 기능성 리오셀의 천연염색 상용화 가능성에 관한 연구
김소진 Sojin Kim , 최경미 Kyoungmi Choi
26(4) 100-111, 2022
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.100
김소진 Sojin Kim , 최경미 Kyoungmi Choi
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.100
Abstract
After the corona pandemic, when consumers choose clothes, the issue of sustainability has become a more important selection criterion. The eco-friendly functional fiber used in the study is a smartcell, which has functions such as UV protection, decomposition of harmful substances, deodorization, antibacterial and biodegradation. This eco-friendly functional fiber was dyed using five kinds of natural dyes to examine the color change according to dyeability and dyeing conditions. As natural dyes, gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, lac, and indigo were used. For comparison with smartcell, rayon, a cellulose regenerated fiber, and wool fiber, a protein fiber, were dyed under the same conditions to compare dyeability and color. The study results are as follows. It was found that smartcell had superior dyeability compared to rayon and wool in gardenia dye and showed lower dyeability than wool when dyeing turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but showed superior or similar dyeability than rayon. In case of indigo dyeing, the dyeability of smartcell was the best when dyed once, but it was found that smartcell had a lower effect on repeated dyeing compared to wool or rayon. Therefore, smartcell has superior dyeability compared to rayon fiber in gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyeing, and in case of indigo dyeing, it is suitable for light dyeing. When smartcell is produced as textile fashion products, natural dyeing is actively introduced and commercialized, and it is hoped that this study can be a reference material.
Key Words
zinc oxide, lyocell, functional, natural dyes, dyeability, 산화아연, 리오셀, 기능성, 천연염료, 염색성
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EMS socks for Preventing Ankle Injuries during Home Training -Focusing on Men in Their Late 20s–
홈트레이닝 시 발목 부상 예방을 위한 EMS 양말 효과 -20대 후반 남성을 중심으로-
송관우 Kwanwoo Song , 박진희 Jinhee Park , 김주용 Jooyong Kim
26(4) 112-122, 2022
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.112
송관우 Kwanwoo Song , 박진희 Jinhee Park , 김주용 Jooyong Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.112
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of using socks combined with EMS on ankle pain reduction and ankle function improvement in home training participants. In this study, the conductive fabric was combined using socks that can properly compress the ankle. First, VAS was measured during EMS training after fatigue was induced and compared with fatigue during rest. It was confirmed that the level of VAS after EMS training was lower than after rest and fatigue. It was also confirmed that EMS training, which combines EMS with socks, was effective in reducing pain. The experimental action is a measurement action of WBLT and lying posture, and the situation before and after EMS training was compared by performing 30 minutes on the treadmill to cause delayed muscle pain during exercise. As a result of this study, it was found that pain reduction and ROM function were improved when electrical stimulation was performed using EMS socks. It was also confirmed that the application of electrical stimulation to EMS socks effected on ankle fatigue and function improvement. From the study results, it is expected that wearing socks equipped with EMS significantly reduces ankle injuries and improves functional recovery for home training participants.
Key Words
EMS, electronic muscle simulation, smart socks, ROM, range of ankle motion, VAS, visual analogue scale, WBLT, weight-bearing lunge test, 전기근육자극, 스마트 양말, 발목 가동 범위, 통증 자각도 검사, 체중 부하 런지 테스트
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A study on Business Guidelines for Revitalizing Personalized Cosmetics Business
개인 맞춤형화장품 사업 활성화를 위한 비즈니스 가이드라인 제안
한채연 Han Chae Yeon , 남현우 Nam Hyun Woo , 신세영 Shin Saeyoung
26(4) 123-135, 2022
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.123
한채연 Han Chae Yeon , 남현우 Nam Hyun Woo , 신세영 Shin Saeyoung
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.123
Abstract
In Korea, business guidelines for nurturing professional manpower in the cosmetic industry are insufficient despite the implementation of legislation and certification system for customized cosmetics. Therefore, in this study, guideline design for customized cosmetics businesses was studied. As a research method, literature on domestic and foreign market conditions and cases of each business type of the customized cosmetics market were analyzed. In addition, a focus group interview was conducted on the guidelines by creating a group of professionals and employees in the customized cosmetics industry. As a result, it was found that the guidelines for individual business owners of customized cosmetics were institutionalized into 4 types, and essential information needed for introduction of the customized cosmetics into the market and information needed for general practice should be provided. It is expected that this study will be developed as a guideline that can guide the growth of the cosmetic industry and the vitalization of the customized cosmetics business in the future.
Key Words
customized cosmetic, business, cosmetic, guideline, 맞춤형화장품, 비즈니스, 화장품, 가이드라인
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A Case Study on Re:Design Collaboration for Sustainable Fashion Industry Revitalization
지속가능한 패션산업활성화를 위한 리디자인 협업 사례분석
김민지 Minji Kim , 이규진 Kyujin Lee
26(4) 136-153, 2022
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.136
김민지 Minji Kim , 이규진 Kyujin Lee
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.4.136
Abstract
The fashion industry is considered hazardous and a threatened to the environment. Due the negative perception, the industry should focus on sustainability as a social role. Therefore, several redesign fashion collaborations mainly focusing on renewing abandoned resources are already in place. The research method was based on previous studies, and 3 characteristics were derived: Redesign collaboration between fashion companies, Redesign collaboration between fashion & heterogeneous industries, and Redesign collaboration between the fashion industry & non-profit organizations. Those 3 characteristics were reviewed using 4 criteria. First, to establish and maximize the sustainable brand image and to be the best examples in environmental management, the organization endeavors to collaborate with various industries, institutions, and designers. Second is the expansion of the customer network through the spread of value consumption. Third is the creation of new values through a resource circulation structure. This means that the resource circulation structure system helps the partners to minimize on wastage. Fourth is the spread of de-boundary lines and the possibility of brand growth. Through collaboration with other industries, the boundaries of materials used in the fashion industry started to blur, thus expanding the continuous brand growth potential. The study derived the characteristics of redesign collaboration by systematically analyzing the cases. Further, the study looks forward to analyzing the characteristics of the products processed by redesign fashion collaborations in future research.
Key Words
fashion collaboration, re-design, type of re-design collaboration, sustainable fashion, 패션협업, 리디자인, 리디자인 협업유형, 지속가능한 패션
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