A Study on the Fashion Style of Hollywood Star Marlene Dietrich in 1930s 1930년대(年代) 할리우드 스타 마를레네 디트리히 패션 스타일 연구(硏究)
정소영 So Young Chung , 조규화 Kyu Hwa Cho
10(5) 1-14, 2006
Title
A Study on the Fashion Style of Hollywood Star Marlene Dietrich in 1930s 1930년대(年代) 할리우드 스타 마를레네 디트리히 패션 스타일 연구(硏究)
정소영 So Young Chung , 조규화 Kyu Hwa Cho
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to examine the style of Marlene Dietrich who was a Hollywood legend in 1930s and has influenced on modern fashion. The characteristics of Dietrich style showed androgyny, sensualism and exoticism. Dietrich has been famous for wearing tailored pantsuit on and off-screen with mannish gesture and had great effect on women`s wearing pants. Her confident, sexy mannish style represented her androgyny glamourously and proved she had a taste for a classic. Her sensualism focused on her famous legs because she understood the sex appeal of woman`s legs. She showed her legs by wearing pants and decorative stockings, or matching colors of stockings and shoes to make her legs look longer and sexier by illusion. Her exoticism against a backdrop of black and white image, was presented with luxurious, sensual fabrics such as furs, feathers and velvet, along with dazzling accessaries. Also she didn`t forget to manipulate angles of camera and lights for the engraving figure of her own. Her charisma directed her fashion image in detail and made herself a fashion icon in 1930s.
Key Words
Marlene Dietrich, 마를레네 디트리히, Hollywood glamour of 1930s, 1930년대 할리우드 글래머, androgyny, 양성성, sensualim, 관능성, exoticism, 이국성
A Study of the Visual Image by Variations in the Location of the Waistline and the Width of the Round Belt of the Basic Pants 베이직 팬츠의 허리선 위치(位置)와 라운드 벨트 폭(幅)의 변화(變化)에 따른 시각적(視覺的) 이미지
김지영 Ji Young Kim , 이정순 Jung Soon Lee , 한경희 Gyong Hee Han
10(5) 15-27, 2006
Title
A Study of the Visual Image by Variations in the Location of the Waistline and the Width of the Round Belt of the Basic Pants 베이직 팬츠의 허리선 위치(位置)와 라운드 벨트 폭(幅)의 변화(變化)에 따른 시각적(視覺的) 이미지
김지영 Ji Young Kim , 이정순 Jung Soon Lee , 한경희 Gyong Hee Han
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the location of the waistline and the width of the round belt of the basic pants. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the location of the waistline and 3 variations of the width of the belt. The data has been obtained from 35 fashion design majors. The data has analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, anova, scheffe`s test and the MCA method. The visual image by the location of waistline and the width of belt are composed of 3 factors : modernity, comfort and attraction factor. In these factors, modernity factor is estimated as the most important factor. The visual image is modern and attractive as the location of waist line goes down. And when the location of waist line is in the position of natural waist belt, belt of 3.2cm width is visually effective. Belt of 4.2cm width is effective except the position of natural waist belt. The interaction effects between the location of the waistline and the width of the belt have significant differences in comfort and attraction factors. As the main effect, significant differences were observed in all of the three factors according to the location of waistline and the width of belt.
Key Words
Modernity, 현대성, comfort, 편안성, attraction, 매력성
A Study on the Costume and Color Image of the Movie 영화(映畵)의 복식(服飾)과 색채(色彩) 이미지
이예은 Ye Eun Lee , 조규화 Kyu Hwa Cho
10(5) 28-44, 2006
Title
A Study on the Costume and Color Image of the Movie 영화(映畵)의 복식(服飾)과 색채(色彩) 이미지
이예은 Ye Eun Lee , 조규화 Kyu Hwa Cho
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to study the movie costume and color image through the movie "The Aviator". Firstly, looking at the costumes of main characters and their color images expressed in the movie, one extreme of Hughes`image to another was expressed in order to show his extreme inner world by using the light-dark contrast rather than specific colors as the base. The gold color used to express the image of Hepburn represented an image expressing her intellectual elegance. As for her dress silhouette, the taste of intellectual elegance was displayed by a dress whose back was exposed with a grownup-style feminine silhouette or one with drapes and pleats ornaments. To express Gardner`s image; that is, her alluring charm and glow, a vivid red color was used. As for her costume, her splendid and fascinating image was expressed by the 40s`rectangular- shouldered tailored suit, exotic peasant blouse and showy accessories. Secondly, the color image expressed in the background in the movie as a special space for Hughes. The red color image of screening room was shown to be as a space for passion and desire and the green color image of men`s room as a space for stability and rest.
Key Words
movie costume, 영화 의상, color image, 색채 이미지, intellectual elegance, 지적인 우아함, alluring charm, 매혹적인 아름다움
Effect of Absorbed Metal Ion Concentration by After-treated Mordanting on the Color and Fastness in Human Hair and Wool Fiber Dyed with African Marigold Petals Extract 아프리칸 매리골드(Tagetes erecta L.) 꽃 추출물(抽出物)로 염색(染色)한 모발(毛髮)과 양모섬유(羊毛纖維) 염색(染色)에서 후매염(後媒染)에 의해서 흡착(吸着)된 금속(金屬)이온 농도(濃度)가 색상(色相)과 견뢰도(堅牢度)에 미치는 영향(影響)
김경선 Kyung Sun Kim , 전동원 Dong Won Jeon
10(5) 45-57, 2006
Title
Effect of Absorbed Metal Ion Concentration by After-treated Mordanting on the Color and Fastness in Human Hair and Wool Fiber Dyed with African Marigold Petals Extract 아프리칸 매리골드(Tagetes erecta L.) 꽃 추출물(抽出物)로 염색(染色)한 모발(毛髮)과 양모섬유(羊毛纖維) 염색(染色)에서 후매염(後媒染)에 의해서 흡착(吸着)된 금속(金屬)이온 농도(濃度)가 색상(色相)과 견뢰도(堅牢度)에 미치는 영향(影響)
김경선 Kyung Sun Kim , 전동원 Dong Won Jeon
DOI:
Abstract
In the previous study, african marigold petals extract was valued as an excellent natural yellow dye because of its distinguished reactivity with various mordants and color fastness. In this study, we were studied on effect of absorbed metal ion by after-treatment of mordants on the color and fastness in human hair and wool fiber dyed with African marigold petals extract because the proteinic and cellulosic fiber were very well dyed. The dyed human hair showed better dyeing ability in the color fastness than wool fiber on tests of light, wash and perspiration. The absorbed metal ion concentration of mordanted human hairs were 1 or 5 times higher than wool fibers. However, excess of absorbed metal ion haven`t consistent effect on K/S and surface color. Human hairs dyed using African marigold extract and mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu and Fe were showed various reddish yellow color groups and good dyeing ability on african marigold extract.
A Comparative Study on Chinese Adult women`s constitutional components and Somatotype Charateristic 지역별(地域別),연령별(年齡別) 중국(中國) 성인여성(成人女性)의 체형구성(體型構成) 요인(要因)과 유형(類型) 비교(比較) 연구(硏究)
위혜정 Hye Jung Wee , 손희순 Hee Soon Sohn
10(5) 58-73, 2006
Title
A Comparative Study on Chinese Adult women`s constitutional components and Somatotype Charateristic 지역별(地域別),연령별(年齡別) 중국(中國) 성인여성(成人女性)의 체형구성(體型構成) 요인(要因)과 유형(類型) 비교(比較) 연구(硏究)
위혜정 Hye Jung Wee , 손희순 Hee Soon Sohn
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to improve of fittness and coverage rate of exporting domestic clothing to China for Chinese Adult Female. For study, It was measured 1381 female women aged between 19 and 50 who resident in Beijing and Shanghai in China. as a sample, 1360 female women was seleted for development of apparel sizing system. As for the method of this study was made of 111 items by indirect measures done during Jun. 23~Aug. 7, 2004. Data analysis were processed by SPSS WIN 10.0 Program was used to for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis, factor analysis, ANOVA(t-test and F-test), duncan`s multiple test. The result was as follows: Chinese Adult women`s constitutional components determined by factor analysis, six components could be identified: factor 1:constitutional obesty and width size, factor 2:longistudinal body size, factor 3: shoulder form and size, factor 4: longistudinal upper body size, factor 5: under body size, factor 6: shoulder dropping. According to the Women`s Wear Specifications(GB/T 1335.2-1997) by drop, body types of Chinese Adult femle was classified into six types, it was Y, A, B, C and Z, D. In order, A type as standard somatotype(49.8%), B type(26.9%), Y type (18.8%), C type(2.9%). Y type had the average height and shoulder, bust girth. They were slimmer in overall terms. A type had a normal obesity and body size in height, shoulder, bust girth. They were average Chinese Women. B type had a smaller then A type. They were more obes and thick waist girth. C type had the highest obesity, the widest shoulder and bust girth, and thick waist girth. The characteristics of each body type following the body type structure factor are Y-type for slender type, A-type for standard type, B-type for slightly large type, and C-type for obese type. For each region, the Beijing area had in the order of A-type, Y-type, B-type and C-type, and the Shanghai area had in the order of A-type, B-type, Y-type and C-type.
Key Words
fittness, 맞음새, coverage rate, 커버율, obesty, 비만도, Longistudinal body size, 신체 종적 요인
The Methods to Activate the Consigned Education of Fashion Retailing Companies in the Dept. of Fashion Design in Junior Colleges -On the Preferred Subjects and Teaching methods- 패션디자인과(科)의 패션유통업체(流通業體) 위탁교육(委託敎育) 활성화(活性化) 방안(方案) -교과목선호도(敎科目選好度)와 교수방법(敎授方法)에 대(對)하여-
김효은 Hyo Eun Kim
10(5) 74-92, 2006
Title
The Methods to Activate the Consigned Education of Fashion Retailing Companies in the Dept. of Fashion Design in Junior Colleges -On the Preferred Subjects and Teaching methods- 패션디자인과(科)의 패션유통업체(流通業體) 위탁교육(委託敎育) 활성화(活性化) 방안(方案) -교과목선호도(敎科目選好度)와 교수방법(敎授方法)에 대(對)하여-
김효은 Hyo Eun Kim
DOI:
Abstract
This study aims at revitalization of industrial consignment education and focuses on the development of preferred subjects and teaching methods. The survey was administered to six hundred workers for the local fashion distribution companies for two years between through interview and questionnaire with 13 questions: 3 of them about favorite subjects, 7 about teaching methods, and the rest about whether or not they want to enter a college as well as which certificates and which kinds of job they want to have. The results of the survey can be summarized as follows. 1 The respondents in 2005 who answered to the questions about fashion design and other major subjects show that they preferred the subjects on fashion design to the subject of make-up and that they were interested in the photo-shop subject while they were less interested in the fashion marketing subject. 2 In order to apply what they learn to their own work field, the respondents want practical-work oriented lectures rather than theory centered ones. It means the new teaching program needs the teaching staffs who have had some practical work experiences and majored in the same subjects as the respondents prefer to learn. So it is necessary to take it into consideration that the development of new curriculums should focus on the subjects of practical skill and the experiences of actual work fields. 3 The certificate of ``shop-master`` qualification is considered as the most interesting and necessary thing for their job. The respondents show that they are most concerned in a shop-master, manager of a department at department stores related to fashion distribution companies. Therefore, it points out the intensive teaching program for getting the qualification of shop-master is a must in the industrial consignment education.
Factors that affect consumer attitude by the types of show-window display and the difference by the gender of consumer 소비자(消費者) 성별(性別)에 따른 의류제품(衣類製品) 쇼윈도우 디스플레이 유형(類型)에 대한 태도(態度) 요인(要因)
권혜숙 Hae Sook Kwon , 신은경 Eun Kyung Shin
10(5) 93-104, 2006
Title
Factors that affect consumer attitude by the types of show-window display and the difference by the gender of consumer 소비자(消費者) 성별(性別)에 따른 의류제품(衣類製品) 쇼윈도우 디스플레이 유형(類型)에 대한 태도(態度) 요인(要因)
권혜숙 Hae Sook Kwon , 신은경 Eun Kyung Shin
DOI:
Abstract
The main purpose of this research is to examine what are the factors that affect consumer attitude by the types of clothing window display, and find if there is any difference by gender of consumer group. Total 357 data from random sample of 347 adults(156 male and 191 female) who were between 19 to 49 years of age were analyzed. Sources for the sample were companies and apartment complexes and several colleges in Seoul and Chonan to diversify by such demographics as age and social status. Factors were measured by respondents` rating of 9 statements using a 5-point Likert-type scale. SPSS(Statistical Package for Social Science) Version 10.0, is used for factor analysis in order to comprehend the factors of consumer attitude and Cronbauch`s α in order to measure the credibility of questions in each factor. The main findings are as follows: First, three dimensions of consumer attitude to two types of window-display of product centered display and image centered display were identified as interest, information, and impression and theses are same to both male and female consumer group. Second, for both male and female consumer group, three dimensions of consumer attitude toward two types of window-display were same, however, included sub categories in each dimension showed a little difference. In product centered display, both male and female consumer group showed high interest in the sub categories of ``fashion`` and ``informations related to the product`` and they were considered same factor. Otherwise, In image centered display, two sub categories of ``having some interests in the display`` and ``recognize the display that projects the image or impression of clothing well`` were showed high relationship each other and they were also considered same factor. Third, Cronbauch`s of α three dimensions of consumer attitude demonstrated high credibility from 0.75 to 0.91. Mean score of subcategories of attitudes toward the type of display by the gender of consumer showed high scores of ``interest`` and ``impression`` categories in image centered display and showed high scores of ``information`` category in product centered display for both gender.
Key Words
Consumer attitude, 소비자 태도, Types of window display. 윈도우 디스플레이 유형, Product centered display, 제품 위주 디스플레이, Image centered display, 이미지 위주 디스플레이
Lower Body Shapes of Chinese Males in Their 20s(Report 1) -Centered on the Ningbo Area of Zhejiang Province- 중국(中國) 20대(代) 남성(男性)의 하반신(下半身) 형태(形態) 연구(硏究)(제1보(第1報)) -절강성(浙江省) 영파(寧波) 지역(地域)을 중심(中心)으로-
이소영 So Young Lee , 심부자 Boo Ja Shim
10(5) 105-121, 2006
Title
Lower Body Shapes of Chinese Males in Their 20s(Report 1) -Centered on the Ningbo Area of Zhejiang Province- 중국(中國) 20대(代) 남성(男性)의 하반신(下半身) 형태(形態) 연구(硏究)(제1보(第1報)) -절강성(浙江省) 영파(寧波) 지역(地域)을 중심(中心)으로-
이소영 So Young Lee , 심부자 Boo Ja Shim
DOI:
Abstract
Body measurement was first made with the subjects of 193 males in their 20s residing in the Ningbo area, Zhejiang Province in China. In this first report, lower body shapes were classified and discriminated by using anthropometric measurement indices and lower body analysis. The following sums up the research: 1. Compared with the average values of Korean males in their 20s, the Chinese subjects were characterized with thinner waist, more flat hip, and smaller midthigh. 2. The subjects of Chinese males in their 20s showed three types of lower bodies: H-Round Type (25.91%)-thick waist-abdomen, round cross-section waist-abdomen, and small waist-hip difference. A-Trapezoid Type (34.72%)-small width of omphalion waist-abdomen, average cross-section waist-abdomen, and large waist-hip difference. A-Balance Type (39.38%)-average width of omphalion waist-abdomen, flat cross-section waist-abdomen, and large waist-hip difference. 3. Seven useful variables for the categorization of the subjects` lower body types were chosen through stepwise discriminant analysis, and the hit ratio of discrimination was 96.89%.
Key Words
Chinese males, 중국 남성, Zhejiang Province, 절강성, Ningbo, 영파시, Lower body shapes, 하반신 형태, anthropometric measurement, 직접측정
A Study of the Visual Evaluation by Variation in the Line and Length of the Bolero 볼레로 라인과 길이 변화(變化)에 따른 시각적(視覺的) 평가(評價)
이정순 Jung Soon Lee , 김정미 Jeong Mee Kim
10(5) 122-134, 2006
Title
A Study of the Visual Evaluation by Variation in the Line and Length of the Bolero 볼레로 라인과 길이 변화(變化)에 따른 시각적(視覺的) 평가(評價)
이정순 Jung Soon Lee , 김정미 Jeong Mee Kim
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to evaluate the visual effects and images according to changes in the line and length of the connecting lines of the neck, center front, and hem line from analyzing the bolero style shown in 2005 S/S domestic fashion. The basic lines of the bolero were classified into three different categories according to the connecting lines of the neck, center front line, and hem line. We altered the length of the bolero in three categories with changes in the waistline-5cm, waistline-8cm, and waistline-11cm. For the visual evaluation, 9 stimuli were placed in mannequins, and were estimated by the experts in the fashion design. For the visual evaluation according to changes in the line and length of the bolero, we used 12 pairs of items to find the visual effects, and 13 pairs of adjectives to measure the visual images. The stimuli and adjectives were randomly given to the evaluators and were evaluated by the 7-Point Likert Type Scale. The data have analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, anova, scheffe`s test. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual effects of the Bolero, the result was classified into 4 factors: the whole silhouette, neck line, breasts and shoulders. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual image of the Bolero, the result was classified into 3 factor: maturity, tenderness, neatness. The visual effects by variations in the line and length of the bolero had significant differences in all factors. The visual images by variations in the line and length of the bolero had significant differences in the maturity, tenderness, but they didn`t show significant differences in neatness.
Key Words
Bolero, 볼레로, visual effects, 시각적 효과, visual image, 시각적 이미지
A Study on Development of Apparel Sizing System for Chinese Adult Female 1 -focused on the entire group- 중국(中國) 성인여성용(成人女性用) 의류치수규격(衣類値數規格) 설정(設定) 연구(硏究) (제1보(第1報)) -전체집단(全體集團)을 대상(對象)으로-
위혜정 Hye Jung Wee , 손희순 Hee Soon Sohn
10(5) 135-158, 2006
Title
A Study on Development of Apparel Sizing System for Chinese Adult Female 1 -focused on the entire group- 중국(中國) 성인여성용(成人女性用) 의류치수규격(衣類値數規格) 설정(設定) 연구(硏究) (제1보(第1報)) -전체집단(全體集團)을 대상(對象)으로-
위혜정 Hye Jung Wee , 손희순 Hee Soon Sohn
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to provide for the useful fundamental data by developing an appearl sizing system according to body types for Chinese Adult Female. Thus, it was to improve of fittness and coverage rate of exporting domestic clothing to China. For study, It was measured 1360 female women aged between 19 and 50 who resident in Beijing and Shanghai in China. as a sample, 1381 female women was seleted for development of apparel sizing system. Thus, this study was to characterize body types of Chinese adult female by classifying them into groups and set coverage rate of ready-made clothes by developing an apparel sizing system according to the Women`s Wear Specifications(GB/T 1335.2-1997), National Standards of People`s Republic of China. As for the method of this study was done during Jun. 23~Aug. 7, 2004. Data analysis were processed by SPSS WIN 10.0 Program was used to for technical statistical analysis. The result was as follows: The clothes dimension for upper and lower body and the coverage rate of body size that had the highest appearance ratio from the entire group was Y-type 160-84ㆍ160-64(4.6%) and the section 160cm 32.4%, A-type 160-88ㆍ160-72(3.3%) and the section 160cm 28.1%, B-type 155-88ㆍ155-78(3.8%) and the section 155cm 27.8%, C-type 150-96ㆍ150-88(2.5%). The result By setting of representative size number and production coverage rate for Chinese adult female. The representative size number of the entire group was set for 150-80Aㆍ150-64A(1.0%), 155-84Aㆍ155-68A(2.6%), 160-88Aㆍ160-72A(3.3%), 165-84Aㆍ165-68A(2.8%), 170-96Aㆍ170-80A(0%). The production coverage rate for each representative size number was SS size the section 150cm 2.8%, size the section 155cm 17.0%, M size the section 160cm 31.6%, L size the section 165cm 25.0%, XL size the section 170cm 12.6% that covered 85.0%.
Key Words
body type, 신체유형, National Standards of People`s Republic of China, 중화인민공화국 국가표준규격, apparel sizing system, 의류치수규격, production coverage rate, 생산커버율
The Development of Men`s Dress Form for Pattern Making 패턴메이킹을 위한 남성(男性) 인대개발(開發)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究)
유현 Hyun Yoo , 심부자 Boo Ja Shim
10(5) 159-179, 2006
Title
The Development of Men`s Dress Form for Pattern Making 패턴메이킹을 위한 남성(男性) 인대개발(開發)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究)
유현 Hyun Yoo , 심부자 Boo Ja Shim
DOI:
Abstract
This research checked about the necessity for the development of men`s dress forms in the first investigation for the educational circle and the men`s wear industry. Somatotype characteristics were analyzed in the second investigation of body measurement with the subjects of 200 male adults in their twenties residing in Busan. The following are the results of the present research to develop male dress forms for patternmaking: 1. In the group analysis for the characterization of front body types, three somatotypes were found and named H, Semi X, and Y. In the cluster analysis of side body types, four types were identified: D, I, d, and q. In the combination of front and lateral body types, four kinds were chosen: semi X-I, semi X-q, semi Y-I, and Y-q. 2. Through the comparison of plane figures by the plaster method as well as horizontal and vertical cross sections by the sliding gauge method, semi X-I was finally chosen as the standard somatotype for male dress form development. 3. Compared with the sliding gauge method of the present dress forms, the research dress form reflected better the shapes of the parts of the back and hips and the position of the waist, especially for males in their 20`s. In addition, the dress form in the current research had superior points in all the items of clothing evaluation. Based on the above results, the sizes and models of the men`s dress forms for patternmaking were developed.
Key Words
dress form, 인대, standard somatotype, 표준체형, plaster method, 석고법, research dress form, 연구인대, present dress form, 기존인대
A Study on the Physical Properties and Color of the Mercerized Cotton Dyed by Gardenia 머서화가공면직물(加工綿織物)의 치자염료(梔子染料)에 의한 염색성(染色性) 연구(硏究)
최정임 Jeong Im Choi , 김종준 Jong Jun Kim
10(5) 180-189, 2006
Title
A Study on the Physical Properties and Color of the Mercerized Cotton Dyed by Gardenia 머서화가공면직물(加工綿織物)의 치자염료(梔子染料)에 의한 염색성(染色性) 연구(硏究)
최정임 Jeong Im Choi , 김종준 Jong Jun Kim
DOI:
Abstract
Mercerization of cotton fabrics affects their various properties including physical properties and dyeing behavior. In this study, the concentration levels of NaOH solution, with 18% and 25%, and the mercerization temperature levels, 22℃, 10℃, and 5℃, were changed in order to investigate the physical properties and dyeing behavior using Gardenia, a natural dyestuff, and direct dyes. The effect of tension during the mercerization was also investigated. In order to investigate the dyeing behavior of Gardenia, a direct dyestuff was employed as a comparative material for better objective analysis and evaluation. It was found that the mercerization condition of 18% NaOH concentration at 10℃, without tension, resulted in the highest △E value, when dyed with Gardenia.
Key Words
Mercerization, 머서화, Gardenia, 치자, direct dye, 직접염료, tension, 장력
