The Study of Children`s Costumes Historical in Enlightment Period of Korea
Jin Kim , Hee Soon Sohn
10(6) 1-8, 2006
Title
The Study of Children`s Costumes Historical in Enlightment Period of Korea
Jin Kim , Hee Soon Sohn
DOI:
Abstract
This study was aimed at reviewing kinds and characteristics of children`s costumes in consideration of their social and cultural backgrounds and particularly, those of children`s costumes during the period of Enlightenment following Chosun dynasty and thereafter. Namely, this study focused on children`s costume history in view of not adults` costume miniatures but their own concept. It is deemed very significant to review the history of our traditional costumes and thereby, express their decorative features with our contemporary sense. It is results can be summed up as follows; Strictly speaking, the period of Enlightenment can be defined as the one from Gwangwhado treaty in 1876 through annexation of Korea by Japan in 1910, but it may well extend until our emancipation from Japan in 1945. By 1890`s, children`s costumes remained almost traditional, but since then, the Chimas as well as Jeogori and breast tie began to be narrower. Particularly, Children`s Jeogori began to be narrower with their breast tie disappearing gradually. By 1910`s, children`s costumes had changed much, with the breast tie replaced by the buttons and the longer Jeogoris.
Key Words
Children`s Costumes, Enlightment Period, Jeogori
A Study on the Color Change in a Union Fabric simulated using a 3-dimensional CAD Software and Image Analysis
Jong Jun Kim
10(6) 9-15, 2006
Title
A Study on the Color Change in a Union Fabric simulated using a 3-dimensional CAD Software and Image Analysis
Jong Jun Kim
DOI:
Abstract
Colors of textile products or fashionable clothing play one of the most important roles. From the point of visual cues, the realism of an image is the result of a good interaction of local light scattering or transmittance model applied. A 3-dimensional CAD software was used to construct a solid plain fabric model. In order to simulate a union fabric with different warp and filling colors, rendering was performed on the fabric model. It was demonstrated that the iridescent effect, pearl effect, or superficial color change effect of the union fabric during wearer`s movement could be explained using the fabric models at inclined fabric positions during viewer`s observation.
Key Words
Surface color change, Union fabric, 3-dimensional CAD software, Image Analysis, Plain weave
Instrumental Measurements of Hand Attributes on Microfiber Polyester/Cotton Blend Fabric Finished with Silicone Mixed Fluorochemical
Young Moo Ahn
10(6) 16-27, 2006
Title
Instrumental Measurements of Hand Attributes on Microfiber Polyester/Cotton Blend Fabric Finished with Silicone Mixed Fluorochemical
Young Moo Ahn
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of chemical finishes on performance characteristics of microfiber blend fabrics. A 60% polyester microfiber/40% cotton blend woven fabric was finished by ten chemicals: three silicone softeners, one fluorochemical, and their mixtures. Performance characteristics examined were fabric hand attributes. Fabric hand was evaluated by instrumental measures using Kawabata KES-F system instruments. Silicone-only finishes did not change the bending properties significantly from those of the control fabric. The fluorochemical-only finish made the fabric stiffer and crisper. When the two chemicals were mixed they tended to offset this adversary effect. Most of the chemical finishes made the surface finer and smoother. Fluorochemical-only finish improved fabric strength. Likewise, dimethylpolysiloxane silicone improved fabric strength. Amino-functional hydrophilic and diamino-functional silicone softeners, on the other hand, reduced fabric strength. However, when mixed with the fluorochemical, the adversary effect was diminished.
Three-dimensionally Simulated Monofilament Fabrics with Changes in Warp/Filling Yarn Diameter
Jong Jun Kim
10(6) 28-37, 2006
Title
Three-dimensionally Simulated Monofilament Fabrics with Changes in Warp/Filling Yarn Diameter
Jong Jun Kim
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this work is to present three-dimensional models of plain fabrics having various warp and filling yarn diameters. In order to simulate a woven fabric, a 3-dimensional CAD software with NURBS modeling capability was used. Final rendering was performed on the fabric model. It was demonstrated that the changes in yarn diameter could be three-dimensionally modeled through the use of fabric geometry and the 3D CAD. A short RhinoScript program was composed to implement the data importing and model building on the 3D CAD.
In Scythian art the multitude of animal representations well illustrates the preoccupation of this nomadic people with animals in their environment. Usually only wild animals are represented. The purpose and meaning of the animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Following earlier Scythian migrations, Sarmatian animal-style art is distinguished by complex compositions in which stylized animals are depicted twisted or turned back upon themselves or in combat with other animals. Without copying nature, they accurately conveyed the essence of every beast depicted. Scythian bound the leather belts that was hanged a hook that shaped of different kinds at the end on the upper garment. Through the antique records and tombs bequests the styles of Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal`s head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. In Korea, through the antique records and tombs bequests the styles of Buckles was horse-shaped and tiger-shaped Buckles that were influenced by scythe style.
The Change of Korean Men`s Pants Design from 1962 to 1998 -Based on the Content Analysis of Magazine Advertisements and Pictorials-
Hae Sook Kwon
10(6) 52-62, 2006
Title
The Change of Korean Men`s Pants Design from 1962 to 1998 -Based on the Content Analysis of Magazine Advertisements and Pictorials-
Hae Sook Kwon
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men`s pants design from 1962 to 1998 by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men`s fashion trend were reviewed. For sample selection, first, 932 pictorials of men`;s wear designs from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men`s Life, WWD, and SFAA`s photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998 were selected and then excluded some samples that could not clearly identify the pants design. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The final samples are classified into pattern, color, length, silhouette, and existence or non-existence of turn-up. Frequency and x2-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. ; (1) Solid pattern was the most prevailed throughout the last four decades and followed by stripe, check, the others, abstract, dot and floral. There is no significant difference in the type of men`s pants pattern between each decade. (2) It showed a significant difference in colors of men`s pants between decades. The colors in men`s wear are divided into nine categories and the order of occurrence are as follows; multi-color is the most frequently shown and followed by brown, gray, blue, black, green, pink, yellow, and red. More various colors appeared over the period, however, multi color was the most popular in all decades but in the 60s. (3) Full length of pants style occupied more than 96% throughout all four decades. Due to the popularity of sports wear in men`s fashion during the 90s, the shorts style appeared not only in sports wear and casual wear but also in suit style. (4) There is a significant difference in silhouette of men`s pants between decades. The silhouette of men`s pants were divided into four types and their order of occurrence are as follows; basic, baggy, fitted, and loose silhouette. Basic silhouette was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades. (5) A significant difference was shown in the existence or non-existence of turn-up of men`s pants between decades. Non-existence of turn-up of men`s pants was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades.
Key Words
Change of men`s pants design, Fashion magazine and pictorials, Men`s fashion advertisement, Men`s pants design elements
A Trend Analysis on the Research of Clothing Construction in Korea - for the recent ten years (1996 ~ 2005) -
Eun Ji Li , Boo Ja Shim
10(6) 63-78, 2006
Title
A Trend Analysis on the Research of Clothing Construction in Korea - for the recent ten years (1996 ~ 2005) -
Eun Ji Li , Boo Ja Shim
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this research is to propose the scientific and rational establishment of research projects and directions for research by analyzing the research trends on clothing construction. The 689 papers in the field of clothing construction are selected among 5433 papers published within the recent ten years (1996-2005) in Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean society of costumes, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing Industry and Journal of Fashion Business. The trend of researches on clothing construction is analyzed by classifying the topics by design, body type, pattern, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, and the others, and the results are as follows. The frequency order of the studies in the field of clothing construction is body type (32%) > pattern (24%) > size of apparel (13%) > protective clothing and functional clothing (10%) > the others (8%) > design-related clothing construction (6%) > fitting of clothing (4%) > sewing (3%). The major areas of research are body types, pattern, and sizes resulting from them. Most of researches are focused on women, and researches on men are relatively lacking. In addition to the deficiency of men-related research, Moreover, researches on characteristics of body types and on corresponding sizes of consumers in the target countries of export are necessary when the reality of Korean clothing and fashion industry that depends more on foreign demand than domestic demand is considered. For production of segmented and specialized results from clothing construction research, related tools such as CAD, 3D shape systems and dress form should be developed and utilized to contribute to precision of research results.
Key Words
clothing construction, trend analysis, body type, pattern, sizes
An Exploratory Study on Brand Personality: The Case of A Traditional Casual Brand in Korea
Mi Young Lee , Keun Young Oh
10(6) 79-90, 2006
Title
An Exploratory Study on Brand Personality: The Case of A Traditional Casual Brand in Korea
Mi Young Lee , Keun Young Oh
DOI:
Abstract
In order to build strong brand equity in the current market circumstances, it is essential to understand the core dimensions of brand image, which is brand personality. The objectives of this study were to identify the brand personality dimensions of a casual brand, "BeanPole," and to investigate the effects of the brand personality on BeanPole buyers` brand preference, satisfaction and loyalty. The data were collected via a web survey. The sample consists of 500 people between the ages of 18-45 who are familiar with Bean Pole casual clothing brand (male- 40%; female-60%). Sixty-six percent of the sample indicated that they had purchased the Bean Pole clothing during the last three years. A total of five factors were extracted from the brand personality index scale: They were excitement/sophistication, competence, sincerity, ruggedness, and smoothness. Compared to the B/P non-buyers, B/P buyers tended to rate excitement/sophistication, competence, sincerity, and the smoothness brand personality dimensions higher. Multiple regression analysis revealed that excitement/sophistication, competence, sincerity and ruggedness brand personality were significant predictors of respondents` casual clothing brand preference, satisfaction, and brand loyalty. Among these significant predictors, competence was the best predictor of casual clothing brand preference, satisfaction and brand loyalty. Based on these findings, strategic implications are discussed.
Key Words
brand personality, casual brand, brand preference
A Study on the Body Proportion and Proportional Dimension Standards for Chinese Women - Focusing on the analysis of the high-frequence group -
Eun Hee Kim , Hee Soon Sohn
10(6) 91-109, 2006
Title
A Study on the Body Proportion and Proportional Dimension Standards for Chinese Women - Focusing on the analysis of the high-frequence group -
Eun Hee Kim , Hee Soon Sohn
DOI:
Abstract
This study aims at strengthening the national competitiveness of Korea`s clothing industry as it provides substantial information on the human body proportion and proportional dimension standards for Chinese women and improves the fitness of clothing, considering human proportion in the production of clothing products for export to China. This study selected by simple random sampling Chinese women in Beijing and Shanghai, China, whose age is between 19-50 from June 23 to August 7, 2004. The stature of the average Chinese woman belonging to the High Frequency group is 7.09 times as long as the length of the head. We developed the body proportional dimension standards with the same proportion with High-Frequence group. The basic size of proportional dimension standards for Chinese women has the stature of 159cm, (chest circumference)/2 of 42.8cm.
Key Words
Chinese women, Body proportion, proportional dimension standards
An Analysis on Cases of Fashion Collaboration Strategy
Eun Young Jang
10(6) 110-121, 2006
Title
An Analysis on Cases of Fashion Collaboration Strategy
Eun Young Jang
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to analyze the various types and areas of recent collaborations in fashion industry and to find the utility value of collaboration. Seventy seven cases of fashion collaboration marketing strategies were selected from officially announced literature survey and enterprises information around the world. Among the seventy seven cases of fashion collaboration surveyed in this study, collaboration with other fields made up 59.7 percent, collaboration between the same fashion categories made up 40.3 percent. Among the areas of other fields, collaboration with IT(Information Technology) or Motor enterprises were included and made up 36.4 percent. Collaborations with Culture and art world that fashion brands collaborate with world-renowned industrial designer or artist and star entertainers were also included and made up 23.3 percent. Among the areas of the same categories, collaboration of fashion designer and sports or casual brand made up 22.1 percent. Collaborations of home shopping mall and fashion designer made up 18.2 percent. Collaboration cases surveyed in this study were classified according to three types; co-product development, co-branding, and co-marketing. Collaboration for co-product development made up 72.7 percent. Collaboration for co-branding made up 27.3 percent. Collaboration for co-marketing made up 37.7 percent. These collaboration marketing strategies are very efficient to upgrade brand image and cut the marketing cost by creating new target, product, brand, and promotion through successful partnerships. Therefore, much more various types and areas of fashion collaborations should be developed to create something new for future consumers.
The purpose of this study is to develop the appropriate brassiere pattern for women. Total of 6 brands with same design and 75A, 80A size brassieres(total 12 brassieres) were compared and analyzed for pattern, cup size and patterns. SPSS 10.1 statistic process was used for data analysis. The outcom of this study is summarized as follows. Total length of brassiere by grade were performed smaller than the standard difference 5cm. For 1/2 front cover length, There were no significant differences between 75 and 80. The reason for lower line of wing is shorter than upper line of wing is because side support is cut side ways considering lower line of wing is sewn more toward front than upper line of wing. Even it is same A cup size most cup related sizes become larger according to underbust comparing with cup capacity, they range from 146.67cc to 172.83cc for same A cups. Among same A cups with difference underbust there was average of 26.16cc differences. For relations of material, sewing technology and expansion rate, all 6 brands had zigzag type sewing for upper line tape. For every 0.3cm height, there were 17~21 stitches. When urethane mixture is similar expansion rate is higher while number of 1 inch zigzag are high. For elasticity, zigzag stitch expand side ways for more expansion.
Key Words
cup capacity, underbust, brassiere, pattern
The Turnover Motives of Clothing Salesperson
Hyun Ju Jung , Young Shim Han
10(6) 131-145, 2006
Title
The Turnover Motives of Clothing Salesperson
Hyun Ju Jung , Young Shim Han
DOI:
Abstract
The study used 24 clothing salespersons who had turnover experiences. It used a qualitative research method, through which the following turnover motives were found. The turnover motives can be classified into two: voluntary and non-voluntary. The voluntary turnover motives include marriage, career change, wages, human relationship, family moving, study abroad, health problems, and so forth. This study finds that some salespersons made a turnover because they did not like the products and brand or they preferred another products and brand. This kind of turnover is unique in the field of clothing sales and seldom found in the motives of salesperson turnover in other fields. The non-voluntary turnover motives are caused by non-personal, circumstantial factors which include the bankruptcy of companies due to economic depression, withdrawal of salesroom from department stores due to low sales, etc. This means that the creation, rise, and fall of fashion brands are closely related to frequent turnover of clothing sale associates. As there are various motives for the salesperson turnover, so it is necessary for the clothing industry to examine and investigate the trends of its salespersons and establish an appropriate policy to cope with the matter.