Color Culture of Japanese Modern Age -Focussed on Edo Period- 일본 근세의 색채 문화 -에도(江戶) 시대를 중심으로-
이경희 Kyunghee Lee
20(4) 1-14, 2016
Title
Color Culture of Japanese Modern Age -Focussed on Edo Period- 일본 근세의 색채 문화 -에도(江戶) 시대를 중심으로-
이경희 Kyunghee Lee
DOI:
Abstract
Japan has several unique traditional colors. The traditional colors of Japan include a collection of colors used in traditional Japanese literature, textiles such as the kimono, and other Japanese arts. Japanese color system has a long history, leading to some consistencies in color and naming. During the Edo period(1603~1867), the unique color sense of ‘iki’ produced many color names that are often related to mouse(nezumi) and tea(cha), and fashion color originated as kabuki actors. As for colors named after animals, the most popular appears to be the mouse, which is used to express grey tones. Recently, many fashion companies in Japan have been working on reviving an interest in traditional Japanese colors. Ordinary people of Edo named even slightly different color tones, each with individual exquisite and mind valuing ‘iki’ senses. They translated these into their livelihood and culture. The colorimetry result of 49 restored dyed fabrics were as follows; Hue difference was 7.8, value difference was 2.9, chroma difference was 1.8 of prefix siro. Hue difference was 3.8, value difference was 1.6, chroma difference was 1.7 of prefix usu. Hue difference was 3.5, value difference was 1.5, chroma difference was 1.4 of prefix cha. Hue difference was 6.4, value difference was 1.1, chroma difference was 1.6 of prefix koi. Hue difference was 7.5, value difference was 0.8, chroma difference was 3.3 of prefix nezumi.
Key Words
color(색채), culture(문화), Japan(일본), Edo period(에도 시대), iki(멋)
Brassiere Pattern Designed to Fit into the Breast Shapes -based on ESMOD pattern- 유방유형별 절개형 브래지어 패턴 설계 -에스모드브라 패턴법을 기초로-
민유숙 You-suk Min , 권수애 Soo-ae Kweon , 손부현 Boo-hyun Sohn
20(4) 15-35, 2016
Title
Brassiere Pattern Designed to Fit into the Breast Shapes -based on ESMOD pattern- 유방유형별 절개형 브래지어 패턴 설계 -에스모드브라 패턴법을 기초로-
민유숙 You-suk Min , 권수애 Soo-ae Kweon , 손부현 Boo-hyun Sohn
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to develop brassiere pattern designed to fit the breast shapes based on ESMOD pattern. It has three quarters cup round shape and also consists of three parts; upper cup, lower cup, and wings. Breast types are classified into five shapes; ideal breast, flat breast, upper developed breast, lower developed breast, and projecting breast. Two subjects for each breast type wore the brassiere, and they evaluated the appearance and wearing twice. Type I for research pattern designed to fit into the breast shape reflecting details of breast size were assessed as superior to the divided commercial type. However, wings’ tightness of Type I for research pattern brassiere was high. Thus, to improve wearing satisfaction, extra was added to wing. Based on the results of wearing experiments of Type I for research, we adjusted and modified Type II for research pattern. Subsequently, its appearance and wearing were evaluated, in order to be improved. For upper developed breast pattern, we extended the length of lower part to balance upper and lower part, as the upper part was somewhat long. The lower developed breast has the closest feature to the ideal breast, suggestive that implies it does not require much improvement Projecting breast pattern has minimal space in the lower part, so we added the support to lift them to be similar to the ideal breasts. For all the breast shapes, we reduced the wings`` tightness from 8% to 7% so that we could extend the length of the wings.
Key Words
Breast Shapes(유방유형), Brassiere Pattern(브래지어 패턴), Value of Appearance(외관평가), Wearing Sensation(착용감)
Effects of Appearance Management Behaviors on Career Decision Level in Female College Students 여대생의 외모관리행동이 진로결정수준에 미치는 영향
김미경 Mikyung Kim
20(4) 36-49, 2016
Title
Effects of Appearance Management Behaviors on Career Decision Level in Female College Students 여대생의 외모관리행동이 진로결정수준에 미치는 영향
김미경 Mikyung Kim
DOI:
Abstract
The objective of this study was to examine the effects of appearance management behaviors on career decision level among female college students. Based on previous studies on appearance management behaviors and career decision level, the items for a questionnaire were developed. For the study, we conducted a questionnaire survey among 292 students from women``s university in Seoul. Factor analysis, correlation analysis and multiple regression analysis were performed using SPSS statistics 23. Results of this study are as follows. First, the factor structure of appearance management behavior had three factors: ``fashion & hair,`` ``skin & plastic surgery,`` and ``body shape.`` The reliability and validity of the factor structure were proved. Second, a significant correlation was found between sub-factors in appearance management behaviors. Career decision level showed a significant correlation only with body management factor. Third, the appearance management behavior of female college students was found to have a partially significant effect on career decision level. For higher grade students, fashion & hair factor and body shape factor had positive effects on career decision level. For lower grade students, body shape factor had a positive effect on career decision level while skin & plastic surgery factor had a negative effect on career decision level. Therefore, to increase career decision level, managing appearance through keeping fit body shape is crucial. This study also suggests that as one elevates to a higher grade, the importance of management and keeping interest toward fashion is important.
Key Words
appearance management behavior(외모관리행동), career decision level (진로결정수준)
Study on the Recognition Rate of Printed QR Codes by Digital Transfer Textile Printing -Focused on Changes in the Fineness and Color of Filament Textile- 디지털 전사날염으로 프린트 된 QR코드의 인식률 연구 -필라멘트 직물의 섬도와 색의 변화를 중심으로-
박서린 Suhrin Park , 김종준 Jongjun Kim
20(4) 50-71, 2016
Title
Study on the Recognition Rate of Printed QR Codes by Digital Transfer Textile Printing -Focused on Changes in the Fineness and Color of Filament Textile- 디지털 전사날염으로 프린트 된 QR코드의 인식률 연구 -필라멘트 직물의 섬도와 색의 변화를 중심으로-
박서린 Suhrin Park , 김종준 Jongjun Kim
DOI:
Abstract
This study analyzed the recognition rate of QR codes printed by digital transfer textile printing for mobile application. The purpose was to identify conditions that increase recognition rates of QR codes printed on textile, in order to increase utility of QR codes in the textile and fashion industries. The study focused on differences in the color of the QR codes and denier, which is a unit of textile fineness measurement, of the textile on which the QR codes were printed. And the recognition rates of QR codes according to the color and denier were analyzed. According to the result of this study, the colors of QR codes had an effect on the recognition of the codes by mobile applications. Specifically, strong contrast, i.e., bright background and relatively dark module, increased the recognition rate of the QR codes. Digital transfer textile printing tend to change the hue of red and yellow and increase brightness, and change in the printed colors also had an effect on the recognition rate of QR codes. There was a clear difference in the color and recognition rate of the printed QR code according to the denier of the textile, and this suggests denier has an effect on the recognition rate. The findings in this study can provide basic data for future research on QR codes digital printed on textile.
Key Words
QR code(QR코드), color QR code (컬러 QR코드), digital transfer textile printing (디지털 전사 날염), design QR code (디자인 QR코드)
Utilization of Appropriate Technology in Textile Design Field 텍스타일디자인 분야의 적정기술 활용
이주영 Juyoung Lee , 김성달 Seongdal Kim
20(4) 72-87, 2016
Title
Utilization of Appropriate Technology in Textile Design Field 텍스타일디자인 분야의 적정기술 활용
이주영 Juyoung Lee , 김성달 Seongdal Kim
DOI:
Abstract
Technical advances contribute to the affluent life of human society. However, many people in underdeveloped countries live in poverty. Hence, many social groups are making efforts to improve their quality of life. The concept of appropriate technology is central to this endeavor. Utilization of appropriate technology in the textile design sector is one of the most efficient ways to make a living, while maintaining traditional skills and tools. It differs from the supply mechanism of advanced technology and products to people in the underdeveloped countries. In this study, we aimed to explore the fundamental ways toward self-reliance among citizens of substantially underdeveloped countries by integrating appropriate technology in the field of textile design. Application types were analyzed by researching cases that incorporate appropriate technology in textile design. These are classified into three ways based on underdeveloped regions, developed countries, and collaborative case with designers and companies. Improvement of the 3 aspects was approached in terms of product development, ongoing management and expansion popularity.
The Effect of Oiling on Vegetable Leather Dyed with Lac 베지터블 가죽의 락 염색 후 가지처리 효과
배상경 Sangkyoung Bai
20(4) 88-95, 2016
Title
The Effect of Oiling on Vegetable Leather Dyed with Lac 베지터블 가죽의 락 염색 후 가지처리 효과
배상경 Sangkyoung Bai
DOI:
Abstract
This paper investigated to the effectiveness of an eco-friendly method for oiling cow leather. After leather was lac-dyed with a vegetable leather processing solution and a mordant, olive oil was used to treat the leather. Changes in surface color and dyeability, light fastness, rubbing fastness, and water fastness were measured. An increase in dyeability caused by the mordant appeared in all the samples. The dyeability of leatger treated with Cu-mordant was higher than that treated with Fe-mordant and Al-mordant, and the three times greater than when no mordant was used. Dyeability after oiling more than doubled compare with before oiling. An increase in dyeability by oiling was highe greater than doubled compared with before oiling. The non-mordant-treated samples exhibited a 5-fold increase in dyeability, and the other samples showed more than two times more dyeability than did non-oiled samples. A color difference of more than 20.0-fold appeared in all samples, and the differences in lightness and chroma were greater than were the differences in other color factors. The colors after oiling were measured R, P, and PB. Light fastness improved in all samples after oiling, and all of the measurements were reduced in the order of Fe-mordant> Cu-mordant> Al-mordant ≥non mordant.
A Study of Fashion and Makeup Style based on Image -focusing on Daejeon and Gyeonggi University Students- 이미지에 따른 패션 및 메이크업 스타일 연구 - 대전과 경기지역 대학생을 중심으로-
차수정 Su-joung Cha
20(4) 96-109, 2016
Title
A Study of Fashion and Makeup Style based on Image -focusing on Daejeon and Gyeonggi University Students- 이미지에 따른 패션 및 메이크업 스타일 연구 - 대전과 경기지역 대학생을 중심으로-
차수정 Su-joung Cha
DOI:
Abstract
This objectives of this research was to look into the actual state of fashion wearing purchase and makeup purchase to recognize the interrelationship between fashion and makeup styles by selecting words used for fashion image and cosmetic style. Such study can offer basic materials for choice of makeup style by each fashion style. Most information on fashion and cosmetics were obtained through the internet. However, a lot of information on cosmetics were also obtained through TV. Therefore, if fashion companies use both internet and TV for advertising, more effect on purchasing might be obtained. The design and color are important standards for selecting clothes. However, the quality and price of clothes are essential standards for purchasing cosmetics. Therefore, for fashion companies, they need to pay more attention to design and color. However, for cosmetic companies, they need to take notice of quality and price. When image words were extracted, fashion images showed the following words: natural, romantic, elegance, casual, and avant-garde, while makeup images showed romantic-casual, elegance, avant-garde, and natural. Regarding the interrelationship between fashion style and makeup style, natural and casual fashion style were harmonized with natural makeup while romantic fashion style was associated with romantic makeup. The fashion style of elegance and avant- garde was associated with elegance makeup. Therefore, similar images were found between fashion and makeup styles.
The purpose of this study was to analyze the brand preference, the clothing pursuit benefits, and the purchasing behavior of Chinese women. A survey questionnaire was distributed to Chinese women in their 20s and 30s. The surveys period was from 9th January 9th to 21st February 2016. The respondents were 343 Chinese women living in Henan. The collected data was analyzed by frequency analysis, factor analysis, t-test, one-way analysis of variance, and Duncan’s multiple range of verification. The key results of this study are herein summarized. The brands examined, listed in order of preference, are Ochirly, Only, Zara, Uniqlo, La Chapelle, H&M, Peace bird, Vero Moda, JNBY, and The Basic House. The five most preferred brands were then selected and further analyzed. For purchasing, the design and price were considered to be important, while for product evaluation, importance was given to the style, price, quality, and color. Factors important in the clothing pursuit benefits were found to be price pursuit, trend pursuit, brand pursuit, individual pursuit, comfort pursuit, and quality pursuit. Also, clothing pursuit benefits depends on the average monthly income, monthly clothing purchasing cost, and the education level of the individual. Lastly, we observed that the sources and store selection made noticeable difference in clothing pursuit benefits.
A Study on the Dyeability of Urtica Dioica L. Extract 쐐기풀(Urtica Dioica L.) 추출물의 염색성 연구
김소진 Sojin Kim , 김리원 Lione Kim
20(4) 128-140, 2016
Title
A Study on the Dyeability of Urtica Dioica L. Extract 쐐기풀(Urtica Dioica L.) 추출물의 염색성 연구
김소진 Sojin Kim , 김리원 Lione Kim
DOI:
Abstract
In this study, dyeability of Urtica Dioica L. extract, which is relatively less studied, was measured. The extract of this plant was used to dye cellulose and protein fiber to check its usage as a natural green dye. Three different methods were used to produce extract. Dried Urtica Dioica L. was extracted with 100% ethanol, 50% ethanol with 50% distilled water and 100% distilled water. Then dyeing solution was obtained by blending with distilled water at 1-to-1 ratio. The maximum dyeability was obtained when 100% ethanol extract of dried Urtica Dioica L. used to dye fabrics at 60 degrees celsius for 60 minutes without mordant treatment. Cotton, rayon, wool and silk were dyed and dyeability for each fiber was measured for color difference value then compared to its control. The results show that dyeability of rayon and dyeability of wool are stronger, and that when color position for each mordant is measured, color difference is most diverse on cotton with pre-mordant treatment. Color fastness to wash, perspiration and rubbing crockmeter were superb, but color fastness to light was low, therefore, additional study on this is needed to improve. Urtica Dioica L. is now expected to be used practically as green color dye as well as medicinally and edible.
Key Words
Uritica Dioica L.(쐐기풀), Dyeability(염색성), Extract(추출물), Color analysis(색상분석), Color fastness(염색견뢰도)
The Difference Analysis on the Preference and Desired Image of Skinny Jeans according to Demographic Characteristics 인구통계학적 특성에 따른 스키니 진의 선호도 및 추구이미지의 차이분석
박영희 Younghee Park
20(4) 141-152, 2016
Title
The Difference Analysis on the Preference and Desired Image of Skinny Jeans according to Demographic Characteristics 인구통계학적 특성에 따른 스키니 진의 선호도 및 추구이미지의 차이분석
박영희 Younghee Park
DOI:
Abstract
This study aims to draw the factors about the desired image of skinny jeans and to analyze the difference desired image, preference, and wearing satisfaction according to demographic characteristics. The data for this study were collected from men and women in their from 10s to 40s. This study used SPSS 20.0 for windows and factor analysis, t-test, one-way ANOVA were used to perform the statistical analysis on the survey data. The result showed that the desired image of skinny jeans was five. The difference results of skinny jeans according to demographic characteristics showed the significant difference in the comfortable and stylish image, the thin and long image, and the active image according to gender, in the bold and sensual image according to marital status, in the bold, comfortable, stylish, and sensual image according to age, in the bold image according to monthly income, and in the bold, thin, and sensual image according to occupation. The difference results about the preference of skinny jeans according to demographic characteristics showed that the groups of women, teenager, five millions won and over to six millions won in monthly income, owner-operators, service and production workers, office workers, middle and highschool students, and university students have the higher preference than the other groups. The difference analysis results about the wearing satisfaction of skinny jeans according to demographic characteristics showed that the groups of women, teenager, five millions won and over to six millions won in monthly income have higher wearing satisfaction than the other groups.
Methods to determine the size of pant patterns with curved design lines and their three dimensional construction using 3D virtual fitting 곡선 절개형 바지의 패턴사이즈 변형방법과 3D 가상착의곡면
이희란 Heeran Lee
20(4) 153-171, 2016
Title
Methods to determine the size of pant patterns with curved design lines and their three dimensional construction using 3D virtual fitting 곡선 절개형 바지의 패턴사이즈 변형방법과 3D 가상착의곡면
이희란 Heeran Lee
DOI:
Abstract
With the advent of smart clothing for health care and sports, the sophisticated designs with curved seams are drawing attention. One of the problems in those clothing is to determine the design curves in 2D pattern, such that it corresponds to the lines on the intended 3D body. Moreover, the difficulty increases when the original pattern needs to be changed for various sizes and body types. We compare two methods of pattern enlargement in this paper: one is the offset/projection type, and the other is the split grading type. For the enlarged pattern with offset/projection type, the 3D surface offset was first adopted to transform the standard lower body to the target larger size; next, the design lines were projected to the new 3D surface, following which the 3D pattern was developed from the newly transformed 3D surface. In the second method, the enlarged pant patterns were developed by the split grading method. Here, a 3D pattern was developed from the initial body, and then enlarged to the target size by the conventional split grading method. Two feminine pants patterns were examined by 3D virtual fitting. We observed that the 3D offset/projection pants pattern was well fitted, having an evenly distributed surplus, as compared with the sample developed using the split grading method. The difference between the two patterns were apparent at the location where several curved lines merged.
Key Words
size deformation(사이즈변형), 3D offset method(3차원 오프셋), 2D grading(2차원 그레이딩), pants pattern with curved lines(곡선형 바지패턴), virtual fitting(가상착의)
Use of Beauty Products and their Consumption: A Behavioral Research in the Higher Grades of Elementary 초등학교 고학년의 뷰티제품 사용실태와 소비행동
방기정 Keejung Barng , 김윤 Youn Kim
20(4) 172-188, 2016
Title
Use of Beauty Products and their Consumption: A Behavioral Research in the Higher Grades of Elementary 초등학교 고학년의 뷰티제품 사용실태와 소비행동
방기정 Keejung Barng , 김윤 Youn Kim
DOI:
Abstract
This study is conducted in grades 4, 5, and6 of Elementary schools located in Seoul. The results would be recognized by the Consumer Behavior Survey and the Use of Beauty. Students in the higher grades of elementary schools are exposed to beauty products for the first time. This is a crucial age, where they start becoming interested in their appearance. This behavior is being exploited to increase the desire to use beauty products. Although the initial use is self-motivated, choosing a quality product is highly influenced by peers, reasonable pricing, and internet impact. The higher the grade of the elementary school, we observed an increase in this trust and impulsiveness in the consumer behavior. More than 2 million students spent considerable amounts of money, and showed trends of consumer behavior of the impulsive type. The results of this study can provide a significant base to further study trends of beauty usage in higher grades of elementary schools, and give an indication of the consumer behavior based on the beauty culture and use of health products.
Key Words
Higher Grade of Elementary Schools (초등학교 고학년), Beauty Product(뷰티제품), Consumer Behavior (소비행동), Beauty Behavior (뷰티행동), Use Survey(사용실태)
Development of a Semi-Atomatic Protocol for embodiment of a desirable 3D breast shape and deployment of bra cup pattern 3차원의 바람직한 유방형상 구현을 위한 Semi-Atomatic Protocol 개발 및 브래지어 컵 패턴으로의 전개
손부현 Boo-hyun Sohn , 권수애 Soo-ae Kweon
20(4) 189-206, 2016
Title
Development of a Semi-Atomatic Protocol for embodiment of a desirable 3D breast shape and deployment of bra cup pattern 3차원의 바람직한 유방형상 구현을 위한 Semi-Atomatic Protocol 개발 및 브래지어 컵 패턴으로의 전개
손부현 Boo-hyun Sohn , 권수애 Soo-ae Kweon
DOI:
Abstract
A breast model was for the human body was devised by studying a body scan and human body index of a desirable breast type. Thus, when manufacturing various 3D models, these results can accordingly become a fundamental basis for realizing a desirable breast model. This study aims to provide a basic data for designing the cup patterns of brassieres in order to improve the function and wearing comfort. The comfort of three kinds of brassieres were compared: one manufactured by the actual measured size; another manufactured as per the ratio of desirable upper and lower breast lengths; and the third manufactured by the 3D model attained by the desirable human body ratio. In this study, we suggest a process for realizing the desirable breast model using the ratio of bust breadth and waist front length, which are the components for deciding the appropriate position and size of breast, and which are easy to measure. The ideal breast shape is an equilateral triangle formed by connecting the nipple with the center of the clavicle. After deciding the interval between the nipples, this value can be used to configure the locations of nipples by drawing a tangent, with equal length, from the anterior neck point (which is the center of clavicle) to the nipple. Also, since inside points of breast do not exist, the outer point of breast, upper point of breast, and below point of breast on the same plane, and the depths from the nipple point to the respective points, are applied to simulate a 3D image, by modifications along the x, y, and z axes. Depending on the type of breast, the length from the center of shoulder to the nipple, the diameter of breast, upper length of breast, and the position of nipple, are different. In conical or protruding breast, the wearing sensation is better when the nipple point of brassiere was lifted, by modifying the upper and lower lengths of breast. Considering the wearing sensation and function of a brassiere, it was better to leave the wearer’s size as it is and use a pad within the same cup, rather than increase the basal area of the breast in order to increase the volume.
Key Words
3D Breast Shapes(3차원 유방형상), Brassiere Cup Pattern(브래지어 컵 패턴), Breast Type(유방유형), Wearing Sensation(착용감)
Impact of Negative Review Type, Brand Reputation, and Opportunity Scarcity Perception on Preferences of Fashion Products in Social Commerce 소셜커머스에서 부정적 리뷰 유형, 브랜드 명성, 기회희소성지각이 패션제품 선호도에 미치는 영향
주보라 Bora Joo , 황선진 Sunjin Hwang
20(4) 207-225, 2016
Title
Impact of Negative Review Type, Brand Reputation, and Opportunity Scarcity Perception on Preferences of Fashion Products in Social Commerce 소셜커머스에서 부정적 리뷰 유형, 브랜드 명성, 기회희소성지각이 패션제품 선호도에 미치는 영향
주보라 Bora Joo , 황선진 Sunjin Hwang
DOI:
Abstract
This study aims to analyze the impact of negative review type, brand reputation and opportunity scarcity perception, on preferences of fashion products in social commerce. For the above evaluation, we used the 2 (negative review type: objective/subjective) X 2 (brand reputation: high/low) X 2 (opportunity scarcity perception: high/low) model, designed with three mixed elements. We enrolled 260 women in their 20s and 30s, who live in Seoul and have used social commerce; a final total of 207 subjects were considered for analysis. The data were analyzed using the SPSS 18 program and reliability test, t-test and three-way ANOVA were performed. Following observations were made: First, preferences were higher when the subjects read objective negative reviews than subjective negative reviews, and when a fashion product was from a brand of high reputation than a brand of low reputation. Second, the interaction effect between negative review type and brand reputation was greater among the subjects whose opportunity scarcity perception is high, than those having low opportunity scarcity perception. Thus, we conclude that the social commerce should encourage consumers to write more objective reviews, and fashion brands should manage their reputations well. Also, social commerce can use scarcity messages aggressively to increase preferences of global fashion luxury goods, which is actively marketed in social commerce since 2015.
