Essentials of Fashion as art from the Perspective of George Dickie`s Institutional Theory of Art -Focus on the Structural Elements of the Fashion World- 디키의 <예술제도론>의 관점에서 본 예술로서의 패션의 본질 -패션계의 구성요소를 중심으로-
서승희 Seunghee Suh
20(5) 1-15, 2016
Title
Essentials of Fashion as art from the Perspective of George Dickie`s Institutional Theory of Art -Focus on the Structural Elements of the Fashion World- 디키의 <예술제도론>의 관점에서 본 예술로서의 패션의 본질 -패션계의 구성요소를 중심으로-
서승희 Seunghee Suh
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to interpret the artistic nature of fashion from the point of view of George Dickie`s Institutional theory of art, which defined art from a sociological context. Five notions to formulate the institutional definition of art were regarding the artist, work of art, public, artworld, and artworld system. These notions were applied to the fashion world, and they deduced the definitions of a fashion designer, a fashion product, a fashion consumer, and the fashion system, which indicated fashion`s social status in the art system. Firstly, a fashion designer plays a collective role in the product with an understanding of the consumers, professional knowledge of the design, and knowledge of making images of fashion products. Secondly, a fashion product involves artifactuality in the form of clothes created by collaboration among producers and it is transformed into fashion by collective activity of distributors and consumers. Thirdly, a consumer is a set of people who play a leading role in the assessment and consumption of the fashion product, allow the fashion designer to read his or her taste and reflect it in the fashion product although they are not directly involved in its production. Fourthly, a fashion system is a social framework for the presentation of a fashion product by a fashion designer to a consumer, and a social institution which enables clothes to transform into fashion through design, production, display, distribution, and sales. As a result, fashion is defined as an artifact in the form of clothes created by a fashion designer and presented to a consumer by the fashion system.
Key Words
definition of art(예술의 정의), fashion consumer(패션 소비자), fashion designer(패션 디자이너), fashion product(패션 제품), fashion system(패션 시스템), George Dickie`s Institutional Theory of Art(조지 디키의 예술제도론)
The Effect of Self-Construal, Prices of Apparel Brand, and Price Discount Sales Promotion Type on Consumer`s Purchase Intention 소비자 자기관, 의류 브랜드의 가격과 가격할인 판매촉진유형이 여성복의 구매의도에 미치는 영향
조규빈 Kyubin Cho , 황선진 Sunjin Hwang
20(5) 16-29, 2016
Title
The Effect of Self-Construal, Prices of Apparel Brand, and Price Discount Sales Promotion Type on Consumer`s Purchase Intention 소비자 자기관, 의류 브랜드의 가격과 가격할인 판매촉진유형이 여성복의 구매의도에 미치는 영향
조규빈 Kyubin Cho , 황선진 Sunjin Hwang
DOI:
Abstract
The study aims to explore the impacts of types of consumer`s self-construal, prices of brands, and types of discount-based sales promotion on consumers` purchase intention. For this study, a three-way mixed factor method was applied based on a formula, types of consumer`s self-construal x prices of brands x types of discount-based sales promotion. The subjects were 218 females in their 20s to 30s living in seoul or Gyeonggi-do areas. For data analysis, three-way variate analysis, analysis of simple interactions and analysis of simple main impacts were conducted through use of the SPSS program. First, based on the impacts of types of consumer`s self-construal, prices of brands, and types of discount-based sales promotions in the favor of consumers, there was a significant difference between higher and lower-priced brands. Second, comprehensive discounts rather than monopolistic discounts corresponded to higher favoring by consumers of interdependent self-construal. As for monopolistic discount, lower-priced products corresponded to higher favor than higher-priced ones. Third, there was a significant difference between consumers of independent self-construal and interdependent self-construal. Fourth, comprehensive discount, rather than monopolistic discount, corresponded to higher purchase intention regardless of prices of brands in the group of consumers with interdependent self-construal.
Key Words
consumer`s self-construal(소비자 자기관), prices of brands(브랜드 가격), types of discount-based sales promotions(가격할인 판매촉진), purchase intention(구매의도)
Classification of Cosmetics Consumers who use a Department Store by the Q-Methodology Q방법론을 활용한 백화점 화장품 소비자 유형
황상민 Sangmin Whang , 신세영 Saeyoung Shin
20(5) 30-44, 2016
Title
Classification of Cosmetics Consumers who use a Department Store by the Q-Methodology Q방법론을 활용한 백화점 화장품 소비자 유형
황상민 Sangmin Whang , 신세영 Saeyoung Shin
DOI:
Abstract
In this study, we used the Q methodology, which is considered an effective way to identify and assess the characterization of the human subjective consciousness, and we intended to carry out a scientific approach to classify cosmetics consumers in a department store. The purpose of this study is to identify the dimension of recognition and the characterization of Korean women who use a department store, as well as to classify cosmetics consumers in a department store. The analyzed data was divided into the top 10 questions and 10 sub-items, and it was then classified into six consumer types, depending on typicality of three factors. The three factors were `effectiveness`, `goal` and `congestion of shopping`. We named and analyzed the features of each type through in-depth Q workshops in which 22 professionals participated. This study is meaningful as it used the Q-methodology instead of statistics which had been used before to classify the consumers, so that the `subjective` estimation was analyzed into `objective` types. The results of this study are expected to be useful for creating a marketing strategy for the cosmetics industry.
Key Words
Q-methodology(Q-방법론), Subjective consciousness of consumers(소비자의 주관적 의식), cosmetics consumers in a department store(백화점 화장품 소비자), consumer type(소비자 유형)
Comparative Evaluation Test of Current Bodice Patterns for Male Adults in Their 20`s 20대 남성의 상의 원형 비교 평가
최현옥 Hyunok Choi , 이경화 Kyong-hwa Yi
20(5) 45-59, 2016
Title
Comparative Evaluation Test of Current Bodice Patterns for Male Adults in Their 20`s 20대 남성의 상의 원형 비교 평가
최현옥 Hyunok Choi , 이경화 Kyong-hwa Yi
DOI:
Abstract
This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man`s bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.
Wearing Condition & Preference of Shirts for Males in Their Twenties and Thirties 20~30대 남성의 셔츠 착용실태 및 선호도 연구
성혜윤 Hyeyun Seong , 이경화 Kyong-hwa Yi
20(5) 60-75, 2016
Title
Wearing Condition & Preference of Shirts for Males in Their Twenties and Thirties 20~30대 남성의 셔츠 착용실태 및 선호도 연구
성혜윤 Hyeyun Seong , 이경화 Kyong-hwa Yi
DOI:
Abstract
This research was conducted to understand the different circumstances for wearing shirts by adult males aged 20-39, and to provide this basic information to the shirt industry prior to developing new functional men`s shirts. A total of 345 respondents participated in the survey. Most of questionnaire, frequency, mean and standard deviation were calculated and the differences between the 20s and 30s were analyzed by t-test or χ2 test. The results of the survey are as follows. Grading the satisfaction degree of their body parts, the respondents were relatively unsatisfied with their height, weight, and waist, abdominal and hip circumferences. Majority preferred department stores, discount stores and outlets for purchasing shirts. Many have never owned tailored shirts - men in 20`s had less experience with tailoring than men in 30`s. The foremost selection criterion for purchasing shirts was fit -during purchase, men in their 20`s considered fit more important than men in their 30`s. The most preferred unbuttoning of the top button when wearing shirts. For favored collar shapes with one button unbuttoned, the most valued collar angle and style was V-neck shape when unbuttoned, low collar band, collar with unopened collar, and stiff collars. Most shirt designs and details included slim fit, no dart in the front and one dart on the back. Men in 20`s more preferred the no dart in the front and one tuck on the back, as compared to men in 30`s. On the other hand, men in their 30`s preferred one dart shirts than men in 20`s. Regarding shirt bands and cuffs, one button and regular collar and one button cuffs with round angle design, were the most preferred, respectively.
Natural Dyeing of Sheep Leather with Amur Cork Tree 황백을 이용한 양피에의 천연염색
김상률 Sangyool Kim
20(5) 76-86, 2016
Title
Natural Dyeing of Sheep Leather with Amur Cork Tree 황백을 이용한 양피에의 천연염색
김상률 Sangyool Kim
DOI:
Abstract
In this research, the dyeing properies of Amur cork tree on sheep leathers were evaluated. The proper dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the colorant concentration, dyeing time, dyeing temperature and dye bath pH. For the proper conditions, the changes of color for different mordants(Al, Cu and Fe) were observed as L *a*b* coordinates and H V/C values. The color fastnesses were also examined, and the antimicrobial properties were examined. The results were as follows: For the sheep leather, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% o.w.f., 40 min., 40℃, and pH 5. The leather color was yellow in the dyeing and mordanting. Although the L*a*b* changed with the mordants and mordanting methods, the overall hue was yellow. The colorfastness to light was reduced compared to original(untreated) sheep leather. The rubbing fastness was generallry satisfactory as 4-5 rating. The dry-cleaning fastness(stain) of leathers were generally at the 4-5 level, but dry-cleaning fastness(fade) was a little reduced compared to original sheep leather. The dyed and pre-mordanted and dyed sheep leather showed excellent antimicrobial properties.
Key Words
Amur cork tree(황백), Dyeability(염색성), Antimicrobial property(항균성), Mordant(매염), Color fastness(염색견뢰도)
An Analysis on the Expressive Characteristic and the Formativeness of Grunge Hair-Design Appearing in Modern Fashion -Focused on 2014~2016 Trend Collections- 현대 패션에 나타난 그런지 헤어 디자인의 표현 특성 및 조형성 분석 -2014~2016년 트렌드 컬렉션을 중심으로-
김경인 Kyoungin Kim
20(5) 87-101, 2016
Title
An Analysis on the Expressive Characteristic and the Formativeness of Grunge Hair-Design Appearing in Modern Fashion -Focused on 2014~2016 Trend Collections- 현대 패션에 나타난 그런지 헤어 디자인의 표현 특성 및 조형성 분석 -2014~2016년 트렌드 컬렉션을 중심으로-
김경인 Kyoungin Kim
DOI:
Abstract
In this study, a variety of influence in the field of design and analysis about the value of a Grunge Design and the creative design inspirations in the field of hair design to help the development of the quality of research. The research methods use the Internet publications such as local and foreign information, analysis and related research and book form, such as the network search, library goes for consideration by a literature search. The contents of this study used review of the case and by Grunge design, expressive characteristics by color, texture and form of Grunge hair design, from 2014 to 2016 trend collections in the last three years through the analysis of design by date of the case. The result of this study is, Grunge design appearing in the areas of hair design, that are grunge anti fashion like the beauty of the disorder, the disharmony, the incomplete, the kitsch, the poverty. Although Grunge means dirt, filth, rubbish as a slang but it is valuable which was raised from the anti fashion to high fashion and alternative of main stream fashion and the hair design in modern fashion also brought. In this study, we can understand the grunge hair design in modern fashion was started from lower place as alternative and forecast the potentialities, the formativeness of the grunge design and value of the beauty and grunge anti fashion the identity and the spirit appearing steadily a modern fashion influence are reflected in our next fashion and design characteristics.
Present and Prospect of Clothing Construction Research - Focus on academic associations` publication - 의복구성학 분야의 연구 현황과 전망 - 학회지를 중심으로 -
김선영 Seonyoung Kim
20(5) 102-114, 2016
Title
Present and Prospect of Clothing Construction Research - Focus on academic associations` publication - 의복구성학 분야의 연구 현황과 전망 - 학회지를 중심으로 -
김선영 Seonyoung Kim
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to enable a scientific and rational approach for future research agenda setting in the clothing construction field. Through analysis of research papers on clothing construction published in domestic academic journals during the recent decade, the research trend of clothing construction in respective academic journals, research subjects, and research contents were grasped thoroughly. From all domestic academic associations` publication on garment/clothing and textiles/fashion, 7 academic journals were selected as subjects of research, in order to compare and analyze the research trend in the last ten years. The ten-year period ranged from April 2006 to March 2016, and a total of 735 papers published on clothing construction were used for analysis. The number of publications in the clothing construction area during the last decade has decreased, which is due to the increase in the number of clothing and textiles fashion-related academic journals, other than the 7 journals analyzed, and since the number of papers published in international academic journals has also increased. Body type, patterns, fitting test, and functional clothing accounted for the highest proportion of research themes in clothing construction. In terms of body type, there was an increasing tendency towards usage of 3D body measurement. In the patterns area, the 3D virtual dressing system was actively used. For functional clothing, sportswear, protective clothes, and innerwear were most widely researched, and ergonomic design together with smartwear was actively studied.
Key Words
clothing construction(의복구성학), research theme(연구주제), research content(연구내용), domestic academic associations` publication(국내 학회지)
