Ralph Rucci, the first American designer who presented official collections at Paris Couture since Mainbocher, is known for his innovative dressmaking techniques and sculptural forms. Accompanied by literature survey, this study examines the aesthetics of Ralph Rucci`s designs by content analysis of his works, Rucci`s designs since his debut collection of 1994 until he left the Chado Ralph Rucci label in 2014 and his returning collection under the new label, RR331, in 2016. Ralph Rucci developed his creative designs by the following strategies: First, he reinvents the couture tradition of Balenciaga and Gres into progressive and functional American couture in that he gives consideration to a wearer`s movements and comforts. Second, Rucci constructs architectural volume based on human anatomy and architectonic strategies, with the attention to three-dimensional quality of the space built between the body and a garment. Third, he conducts engineered construction summarized by his original `suspension` techniques, which function as both ornamentation and construction.
Key Words
Ralph Rucci, American couture, architectural form, engineered construction
A Comparative Study of Recognition Rate of Color QR Code Printed on Tyvek and Cotton Material
Suhrin Park
21(3) 14-28, 2017
Title
A Comparative Study of Recognition Rate of Color QR Code Printed on Tyvek and Cotton Material
Suhrin Park
DOI:
Abstract
This purpose of this study to analyze effect material properties have on change in QR code recognition rate according to change of materials by comparing recognition rate of color QR code. QR code applied to textile materials has the advantage of being washable and being applicable to lost child prevention goods or clothes or a person with dementia through record of information relating to the material or input of additional information, differently from QR code printed on the conventional paper. An effective method of entering QR code in textile materials is Digital Textile Printing(DTP), that facilitates printing by rapidly applying diverse information, and small quantity production. It is possible to tailor various QR codes according to use. Regarding samples to use, cotton material used in clothing products and Tyvek material recently applied to clothing and related products were selected. Reactive dyes were used for cotton, pigment was used for Tyvek, and QR code was printed with an inkjet printer by direct printing method. Printing methods and surface textures are different between cotton and Tyvek. It was revealed that consequent print results and results of recognition rate were different. Regarding color to be printed, 2015 S/S - 2017 S/S color presented by Pantone was used. Color combination affected recognition rate of color QR code. Understanding color combination, material properties and print characteristics may be helpful in increasing recognition rate of color QR code, and may contribute to usability of color QR code applied to textile materials in the future.
Key Words
Tyvek, QR code, color QR code, digital textile printing
Impact of Female Consumer Self-Image on Pursued Fashion Style
Doohah Yoon , Jongpil Yu
21(3) 29-42, 2017
Title
Impact of Female Consumer Self-Image on Pursued Fashion Style
Doohah Yoon , Jongpil Yu
DOI:
Abstract
This study investigates the impact of female consumer self-image on pursued fashion style. A survey was carried out among 717 women between the ages of 20 and 60 living in Seoul, Incheon, and Gyeonggi. Analysis was conducted in the following manner: SPSS 18.0 was used to perform an Exploratory Factor Analysis (descriptive analysis, principal factor analysis, Pearson correlation analysis, frequency analysis, and reliability analysis) and AMOS 21.0 was used to carry out a Confirmatory Factor Analysis. Based on a Structure Equation Model, results show that ideal self-image and realistic self-image, which are factors derived from psychology, affect pursued fashion style. By contrast, social self-image - derived from social contexts - does not. Therefore, the female consumers` self-image influences pursued fashion style; this is opposed to the relationship between the realistic self-image and ideal self-image of women, which is more unconscious and self-satisfying. The presented results indicate that we should respond to changes in the fashion industry and develop a deeper understanding of consumer niches to discover the factors that predict purchasing behavior. This knowledge can then be applied to establish market strategies. This study contributes to the literature by producing preliminary data that can help support such strategy formulation in the fashion and clothing industry.
Key Words
self-image, pursued fashion style
A Study on Visual Humor Expression in Fake Technique Fashion
Jinyoung Kim , Hosup Kan
21(3) 43-57, 2017
Title
A Study on Visual Humor Expression in Fake Technique Fashion
Jinyoung Kim , Hosup Kan
DOI:
Abstract
This study concerns visual humor in fake technique fashion. While previous studies focused mainly on expression techniques of fake technique fashion, this study analyzed visual humor in fake technique fashion based on classification criteria of visual humor expression techniques, differenting this study from other studies. The purpose of this study was to derive visual humor in fake technique fashion by classifying cases of fake technique fashion, and re-classifying outcomes of primary classification based on criteria of visual humor expression techniques. As for methods, this theoretical study was conducted on humor, expression techniques of visual humor, fake fashion and fake expression techniques through literature review. Subsequently, 485 fake technique fashion images obtained from research were classified by expression techniques, and cases of fake technique fashion were analyzed. In addition, by combining this theoretical study with case studies, fake technique fashion was re-classified according to criteria of visual humor expression techniques to derive the characteristics of visual humor in fake technique fashion. Based on visual humor expression techniques, visual humor in fake technique fashion was created by distortion and transformation that made the fake look real by distorting or transforming the fake, enlargement and reduction that created new forms by altering familiar forms, and typeplay that added fun by changing familiar luxury logos into various forms.
The Role of Sketches in Fashion Design -Focus on a Case Study of a Professional Designer`s Process-
Jung Soo Lee
21(3) 58-66, 2017
Title
The Role of Sketches in Fashion Design -Focus on a Case Study of a Professional Designer`s Process-
Jung Soo Lee
DOI:
Abstract
This study investigated the key role of sketches in creative fashion design by observing the cognitive process of idea development through a professional`s design problem solving using the medium of hand sketching. The three-part semi-constrained design experiment with a professional designer, in which the participant designer was provided a source of inspiration image and asked to design a small collection of outfits, identified a fashion designer`s idea development process as involving two phases of sketch processes: lateral and vertical transformation. Analysis of the video/audio recording and corresponding interviews validated lateral transformation in the designer`s use of sketches to represent interpretation of the provided inspiration source. Through sketching, the designer transferred fuzzy ideas onto paper. Vertical transformation was observed through the designer`s modification of previous ideas after reflecting on earlier sketches, with various ideas divided, manipulated, discarded, regrouped, and combined through sketching activities. The designer`s sketching process is valuable design knowledge that facilitates the idea development process and ultimately triggers generation of creative ideas. Understanding it may benefit practitioners and educators.
Key Words
sketches, design Process, idea development, fashion design, professional
The Effects of Using O2O Fashion Mobile Commerce on Consumers` Attitudes and Intentions Focused on the characteristics - of consumers and O2O mobile commerce-
Takhwan Ko , Sunyoung Yeom , Miyoung Lee
21(3) 67-79, 2017
Title
The Effects of Using O2O Fashion Mobile Commerce on Consumers` Attitudes and Intentions Focused on the characteristics - of consumers and O2O mobile commerce-
Takhwan Ko , Sunyoung Yeom , Miyoung Lee
DOI:
Abstract
This study investigated consumers` enjoyment, perceived risks, expected values, and innovativeness factors and the effects of the convenience and personalization of "online to offline" (O2O) fashion mobile commerce on its perceived usefulness, perceived ease of use, and consumers` attitudes and intention to use O2O mobile commerce. A research model was developed using the Technology Acceptance Model (TAM). A mobile survey was conducted through smartphone messengers and SNSs targeting male and female college students in their 20s who are living in the Seoul Metropolitan Area. A total of 192 questionnaire responses were used in the analysis. “Among the consumer characteristics, only enjoyment and expected values were found to make consumers feel that the O2O fashion mobile commerce is useful and easy to use. Among the mobile commerce characteristics, only convenience was found to have significant effects on consumers` perceived usefulness and ease of use regarding O2O fashion mobile commerce. Perceived usefulness was found to have the effects on attitudes as well as intention to use toward O2O mobile commerce. It was shown that positive attitudes toward O2O mobile commerce led to positive use intention toward O2O mobile commerce.
Key Words
online to offline, fashion mobile commerce, TAM model
The Impact of the United States Fashion on Korean Fashion in 20th Century
Keunyoung Oh , Jeongwook Choi
21(3) 80-92, 2017
Title
The Impact of the United States Fashion on Korean Fashion in 20th Century
Keunyoung Oh , Jeongwook Choi
DOI:
Abstract
Fashion trend is more than a social phenomenon that multitudes of people accept as popular styles of clothing. The purpose of this study was to understand the influence of fashion trend over time and distance. Geographically thousands of miles apart, the U.S. has strongly influenced fashion in Korea, revealed by references and historic depictions collected from literature and web sites. Results of the study are summarized as five issues: First, emergence of female missionaries from the U.S. American missionaries working in the late Great Korean Empire performed a significant role importing Western culture to Korea. Second, as opportunities of education increased, women studying abroad introduced Western fashion to Koreans when they returned to Korea. They were more open to Western culture than other Koreans and moderately harmonized their Korean sentiment and Western culture, mitigating cultural shock and enabled other Koreans to accept Western culture. Third, the effect of fashionistas on media. Singers working for U.S. armies stationed in Korea and movie stars appearing in Hollywood movies profoundly affected Korean pop culture and fashion trends in Korea. Fourth, following First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy of the U.S. She was an influential figure in those days and a fashion leader as well. Lastly, acceptance of working girl fashion depicted in American television shows. American working girls depicted on American TV shows were highly admired by young Korean women, so the fashion of American working girls became a major fad among young Korean women.
Key Words
trend, fashion diffusion theory, trickle-down theory, Korean fashion in the early, 20th century