A Study on Costume Design and Aesthetic Characteristics in Movie < The Danish Girl > as Mise-en-scène 미장센으로서의 영화 <대니쉬 걸> 의상 디자인과 미적 특성 연구
박혜원 Hyewon Park
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.3.1
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to find the aesthetic characteristics of costume design as mise-en-scène in movie ‘The Danish Girl’. the methods of this study was carried out prior research, literature studies and qualitative research of visual content analysis by DVD. The spatial and temporal scope of the study is Copenhagen, Denmark from 1926 to 1931, and Paris, France. The styles of the times(1925 ~ 1931) and the spatial sensibilities of women's costumes in terms of form and color were examined thorough out the story. As the results, the costume are based on the 1920's Art Deco style like straight silhouette and some of them are oval soft silhouette. The colors are harmonized or in conflict based on Nordic colors such as blue-green, gray and yellow. Rather than expressing the internal conflict between the two main characters, the costume was focused on the role and character. And also exotic tastes like Japanese and Egyptian textiles patterns and decorations. Therefore, it was found that the movie costume played a role as one of the very important mise-en-scène.
Key Words
movie costume, mise-en-scène, The Danish Girl, 영화의상, 미장센, 대니쉬 걸
Development of Smart Soccer Socks Using a Textile Stretch Sensor -Focused on Middle School Girls between the Ages of 14 and 15- 텍스타일형 스트레치 센서를 이용한 스마트 축구 양말 개발 -14~15세여중생을중심으로-
김지선 Ji-seon Kim , 박진희 Jinhee Park , 김주용 Jooyong Kim
Development of Smart Soccer Socks Using a Textile Stretch Sensor -Focused on Middle School Girls between the Ages of 14 and 15- 텍스타일형 스트레치 센서를 이용한 스마트 축구 양말 개발 -14~15세여중생을중심으로-
김지선 Ji-seon Kim , 박진희 Jinhee Park , 김주용 Jooyong Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.3.17
Abstract
This study aimed to produce fiber stretch sensors for smart soccer socks to prevent injuries during training. A sensor was manufactured with stretchable fabric and tested to ensure convenience during training. In order to manufacture the fiber stretch sensor, a CNT dispersion solution was applied to an e-band and elastic polyester fabric, and the performance of the sensors was evaluated by a tensile test. Performance evaluation showed that both of the tested fabrics are excellent for this purpose. Both sensors were attached to socks to create prototype wearable devices, and an experiment was conducted to determine whether a resistance change accompanying relaxation and contraction of the gastrocnemius muscle could be detected. In order to accurately evaluate performance as a sensor, the fabric was stretched 20 times at low speeds of 1 Hz and 0.5 Hz. A change in resistance due to tension was observed, with both the E-band and the stretchable poly fabric showing high sensitivity and high reproducibility. Both can be used as relaxation/contraction sensors. Smart soccer socks were made using the two materials, and an evaluation was conducted. Tensile tests were done on the smart soccer socks; the tests were done 20 times per sock, and the sensor showed a stable resistance change between 30 and 40 ohms depending on the tension of the sensor. As a result, we confirmed that smart soccer socks with stretch sensors made of E-bands can measure changes in the gastrocnemius muscle.
Key Words
resistance sensor, textile stretch sensor, sports science, soccer socks, smart socks, CNT dispersion solution, 저항 센서, 텍스타일형 스트레치 센서, 스포츠 과학, 축구 양말, 스마트 양말, CNT 분산액
A Study on the Smoke Hazard Increase of Flame-retardant-treated Interior Decorative Textile -Focused on Viscose Rayon Textile Wallcovering- 난연 처리된 실내장식섬유의 연기 위해성 증가에 관한 연구 -비스코스 레이온 섬유 벽지를 중심으로-
A Study on the Smoke Hazard Increase of Flame-retardant-treated Interior Decorative Textile -Focused on Viscose Rayon Textile Wallcovering- 난연 처리된 실내장식섬유의 연기 위해성 증가에 관한 연구 -비스코스 레이온 섬유 벽지를 중심으로-
이준한 Joonhan Lee , 김선미 Sun Mee Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.3.30
Abstract
This study was conducted to identify problems in domestic flame-retardant performance specifications. Currently, the domestic wallcovering anti-inflammatory regulations are not prepared for damage caused by smoke, with the carbonized area as the main function. In particular, given that smoke is the main cause of human casualties and injuries in a fire, it is reasonable that the flame density and toxicity of the wallcovering should also be the main performance indicators. The scope and method of research in this study were as follows. First, a prior study related to fire on various wallcoverings was considered. Second, it raised questions about the effects of smoke in the event of a fire and domestic anti-inflammatory performance tests. Third, textile wallcovering samples were manufactured with viscose rayon for experimental verification of the problems and tested by Korean and EU standards without flame retardant processing to analyze the differences between each regulation. Fourth, the performance of flame retardant wallcovering according to Korean standards was evaluated using smoke density and harmful gas testing methods. The results of each test were as follows. Non-fire retardant wallcovering was rejected by Korea standards. However, B-s1.d0 in Europe. Smoke density testing and harmful gas by domestic combustion processing on the same sample showed that the smoke density increased about 4.3 times more than before, and the harmful gas test showed that the suspension of the post-processing sample slowed earlier than the non-processed sample.
Key Words
textile wallcovering, viscose rayon, fire retardant, smoke density, gas harmfulness, 섬유벽지, 레이온, 난연, 연기밀도, 가스유해성
A Study on the Characteristics and Strategies of the Living Business of Fashion Brands 패션 브랜드의 리빙 분야 사업특성과 전략
A Study on the Characteristics and Strategies of the Living Business of Fashion Brands 패션 브랜드의 리빙 분야 사업특성과 전략
박근영 Geunyoung Park , 김성달 Seongdal Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.3.40
Abstract
The home furnishing and living market is growing because of the increasing interest of consumers in living spaces. In this trend, global fashion companies are seeking to increase sales by expanding their businesses by launching their own home lines or brands early, taking advantage of the various advantages of each brand. In response, this study was designed to examine the strategies necessary for domestic fashion brands to pursue their business in the future by conducting a case study and characteristics analysis of the living brands of foreign fashion companies in line with the trend of expanding their living-related businesses. The following is an analysis of the characteristics of the living brands of global fashion companies. First of all, utilizing the brand awareness of fashion companies; second, the strength of unique textile designs; and third, the expansion of synergy through the expansion of the business into various fields. Fourth, the lack of diversification in materials suitable for living products; fifth, the lack of information on quality; sixth, the lack of space and contents for living areas. Finally, a living brand strategy of a domestic fashion company was proposed as follows. First, it proposed collaboration with textile design companies and designers; second, it proposed exploring business models through the inclusion of brand licenses; and third, it proposed expanding the planning of living products of private brand by distribution companies.
Key Words
living brand, fashion brand, home furnishing, home collection, 리빙브랜드, 패션브랜드, 홈퍼니싱, 홈컬렉션
Characteristics of Hijabista Fashion in Southeast Asia according to Social Media - Focused on Indonesia and Malaysia - 소셜 미디어를 통한 동남아시아 히자비스타(Hijabista)의 패션 특성 연구 -인도네시아 ·말레이시아를 중심으로 -
Characteristics of Hijabista Fashion in Southeast Asia according to Social Media - Focused on Indonesia and Malaysia - 소셜 미디어를 통한 동남아시아 히자비스타(Hijabista)의 패션 특성 연구 -인도네시아 ·말레이시아를 중심으로 -
박혜원 Heywon Park , 장선우 Seonu Jang
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.3.51
Abstract
In response to the South Korean government's trade diversification policy, the New Southern Policy, research is needed into the large population of Muslim fashion consumers who live there. Currently, veils worn by Muslim women are becoming a part of fashion collections as a style choice not just as a religious requirement. As such, the aim of this study is to investigate the fashion characteristics of the Southeast Asian Hijabistas. To do this we investigate the activities and the meanings of recent changes in the Southeast Asian fashion market, we also take a look at the Hijabistas who lead these changes. This is carried out as a theoretical study via literature review. In addition to this research, we selected 6 Hijabistas from Indonesia and Malaysia and analyzed 204 of their SNS photos. The results showed that the sportive image was popular; in terms of veils, hijabs and turbans were most popular; while pants and T-shirts dominated the clothing choices. Black and neutral colors were most popular but a variety of colors and tones were represented. In terms of fabric patterns, most of the choices were solid with no patterns. In terms of the types of veil used, in order of most to least popular were: hijabs covering down to the neck, turbans, and hijabs covering down to the chest. It was found that the Hijabista in Indonesia and Malaysia prefer an open, trendy fashion style. In conclusion, it was found that the Southeast Asia Muslim Fashion community are utilizing hijabs to express their identity not only as a Muslim and but also as a fashion item.
Key Words
Hijabista, Islam fashion, Indonesian Muslim fashion Malaysian Muslim fashion, Southeast Asia Muslim fashion, 히자비스타, 이슬람 패션, 인도네시아 무슬림 패션, 말레이시아 무슬림 패션, 동남아 무슬림 패션
Online Product Planning in a Fashion Brand -Focused on the Brand of Women's Clothing Run by the Company's Mall- 패션브랜드의 온라인 상품기획 -자사몰 운영의 여성복 브랜드를 중심으로-
Online Product Planning in a Fashion Brand -Focused on the Brand of Women's Clothing Run by the Company's Mall- 패션브랜드의 온라인 상품기획 -자사몰 운영의 여성복 브랜드를 중심으로-
이수진 Soojin Lee , 이금희 Keumhee Lee
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.3.69
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to analyze examples of online fashion product planning of domestic fashion brands, to grasp the characteristics and step-by-step problems in product planning, and to suggest product planning methods. This study consists of a literature study and a case study. The results of th study are as follows. First, in the information analysis and product planning, product planning according to analysis and targeting of online consumers should be conducted separately from offline, and the proportion of online-only products should be expanded. Second, in the design planning and product development stages, it should be possible to secure the quantity through the pre-planning of fabrics, a to acquire the novelty of the material through the preemption of good fabrics and the pre-planning of colors to secure competitive design. Third, in the convention, a systematic review process involving company members and customer review teams should be conducted to ensure product quality and sales-ability Fourth, in the production stage, the production period must be to reduce cost. Fifth, differentiated services according to the characteristics of their products for each brand in the promotion and sales stages. Based on this analysis, a desirable approach online product planning should first run promotion phase, increasing pre-planning for the product, and organizing specialize work and manpower issues.
Textile Structural Design with Fabric Flexibility using SLS 3D Printing Technology SLS 3D 프린팅 기술을 적용한 직물 유연성이 발현된 직물구조적인 설계디자인
송하영 Hayoung Song
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.3.85
Abstract
Recently, 3D printing technology, which is suitable for small-volume production of many varieties, has become considered a key manufacturing technology in the 4th industrial revolution. However, the nature of 3D printing technology means it is not yet able to be applied to traditional textiles due to Fabric Flexibility. The aim of this study is to investigate Textile Structural Design by finding the optimal yarn thickness for Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) 3D printed structures on geogrid dobby woven fabric that gives the optimal flexibility and tensile strength in the final product. The test results for tensile load strength of the 3D printed test samples, using 1.0mm, 0.8mm, 0.6mm and 0.4mm yarn thicknesses, showed that all were found to be above 250N, this higher than the tensile strength of 180N that is recommended for textile products. Based on these results, the four dobby structural patterns with 3D printing produced had four yarn thicknesses: 1.0mm, 0.8mm, 0.6mm, and 0.4mm. The thinner the yarn, the more flexible the fabric; as such the optimal conditions to produce SLS-based 3D printed textiles with suitable strength and flexibility used a thickness of yarn in the range of 0.4mm to 0.6mm.
Key Words
3D printing, textile structural design, fabric flexibility, selective laser sintering, 3D 프린팅, 텍스타일 구조적인 디자인, 직물 유연성, 선택적 레이저 소결
The Study on the Silver Fashion Icon Iris Apfel’s Fashion Style 실버 패션 아이콘 Iris Apfel의 패션 스타일에 관한 연구
The Study on the Silver Fashion Icon Iris Apfel’s Fashion Style 실버 패션 아이콘 Iris Apfel의 패션 스타일에 관한 연구
김장현 Janghyeon Kim , 김영삼 Youngsam Kim
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.3.101
Abstract
This study considers aesthetic characteristics by examining the fashion style of the silver fashion icon Iris Apfel. The research methods were a quantitative and qualitative analysis of Iris Apfel’s images that were collected from 2015 to 2019 on various web-sites according to four criterions following advanced research analysis of fashion style. The results of the study are as follows. The analysis results on the fashion style of Iris Apfel, an icon of silver style, showed that cocoon, barrel and A-line silhouettes appeared most in terms of silhouettes. Second, in terms of colors, achromatic colors dominated among solid colors while one particular vivid color appeared most it came to mixed color. In terms of multi colors, these appeared according to the patterns applied to her clothing, in particular, colorful colors were used to emphasize splendor. Third, flower, bird and geometric patterns appeared most in terms of material patterns. Lastly, it was found that white short cut hair, large necklaces or bangle bracelets, over-sized black glasses and fur mufflers or canes were used in terms of hair and accessories. The features derived through analysis of the fashion style of Iris Apfel, an icon of silver style, are as follows. The first feature is exaggeration through splendid primary colors and over-sized silhouettes. The second feature is the hybrid of modern composition methods using natural images and exotic preferences. The third feature is her representation of identity using fixed items.
Key Words
silver fashion icon, fashion style, Iris Apfel, aesthetic characteristics, 실버 패션 아이콘, 패션 스타일, 아이리스 아펠, 미적 특성
Research on the Beijing International Fiber Art Biennale -Focused on Entries from Korea, China and Japan- 베이징 국제 섬유비엔날레에 관한 연구 -한국, 중국, 일본의 출품작을 중심으로-
Research on the Beijing International Fiber Art Biennale -Focused on Entries from Korea, China and Japan- 베이징 국제 섬유비엔날레에 관한 연구 -한국, 중국, 일본의 출품작을 중심으로-
정경연 Kyoungyeon Chung , 윤나영 Nayoung Yoon
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.3.114
Abstract
This paper is a study of culture and identity expressed in textile art works of the age of globalization, centering on the Beijing International Fiber Art Biennale. This study began with the idea that globalism would develop regional cultural diversity as well as contribute to the field of art. In 2000, the Beijing International Fiber Art Biennale held its first large exhibition, and a total of 10 biennales were held from then until 2018. Get an understanding of the Beijing International fiber art Biennale, and select award-winning works from one to ten times to learn about cultural characteristics and identity. The analysis was based on the works of awards from China and Japan, including Korea, which are the center of East Asian culture. The Beijing International Fiber Art Biennale has steadily increased the number of participating countries, writers and works, and once again opened the stage for the revival of textile art following the Lausanne International Tapestry Biennale. Through the Beijing International Fiber Art Biennale, textile artists hope to promote world harmony in textile art, respect cultural diversity and conduct equal dialogue between East and West cultures.
Key Words
fiber art, Beijing international fiber art biennale, cultural characteristics, 섬유 미술, 베이징 국제 섬유 비엔날레, 문화적 특성
A Development of Shinhanbok Coat Design Using Lattice Window Pattern of Huijeongdang, Changdeokgung Palace 창덕궁 희정당(熙政堂) 창살문양을 활용한 신한복 코트 디자인 개발
홍수진 Soojin Hong , 김은정 Eunjeong Kim , 배수정 Soojeong Bae
A Development of Shinhanbok Coat Design Using Lattice Window Pattern of Huijeongdang, Changdeokgung Palace 창덕궁 희정당(熙政堂) 창살문양을 활용한 신한복 코트 디자인 개발
홍수진 Soojin Hong , 김은정 Eunjeong Kim , 배수정 Soojeong Bae
DOI:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.3.121
Abstract
This thesis makes it an aim to develop designs of Shinhanbok coats interpreting and applying the formative structure of the lattice window pattern in Huijeongdang of the Changdeokgung palace, one of the best architecture in Chosun dynasty. Literature review about the history and characteristics of the window of Huijeongdang of the Changdeokgung palace was performed on the basis of the internet resources and papers, and the examples of the fashion design applying the lattice window patterns were analyzed. Then, three style Shinhanbok coats were designed and presented with making use of 6 kind of lattice window patterns as its motif. The coats were designed in flexible size, attempting to clad any kind of body size and shapes. Design 1 drawn from Wanjasal, Tisal, Design 2 drawn from Ajasal, Yongjasal, Tisal, design 3 drawn from Bitsal, Jungjasal. In conclusion, lattice window patterns of the traditional beauty highlighted in view of modern times might be suggested as the motif for expressing the proportion with balance and rhythm with stability. The division of the space with the line was tried with the technique of the bias cutting, stitching and taping with the design of simplicity signified in the aesthetics of the vacant space in addition to its ornamental effects. Thus, this study would like to contribute to the popularity of the Shinhanbok outlined in modern application and unique taste through the study and applications of the traditional lattice window pattern of Korea.
