Analysis of Hip-hop Fashion Codes in Contemporary Chinese FashionSen Bin , Haejung Yum 26(6) 1-13, 2022 DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.1
TitleAnalysis of Hip-hop Fashion Codes in Contemporary Chinese Fashion
Sen Bin , Haejung Yum DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.1 AbstractThe purpose of this study was to find out the type of fashion codes hip-hop fashion has in contemporary Chinese fashion, and the frequency and characteristics of each fashion code. Text mining, which is the most basic analysis method in big data analyticswas used rather than traditional design element analysis. Specific results were as follows. First, hip-hop initially entered China in the late 1970s. The most historical turning point was the American film “Breakin”. Second, frequency and word cloud analysis results showed that the “national tide” fashion code was the most notable code. Third, through word embedding analysis, fashion codes were divided into types of “original hip-hop codes”, “trendy hip-hop codes”, and “hip-hop codes grafted with traditional Chinese culture”. Key Wordship-hop, hip-hop fashion, Chinese hip-hop, Chinese fashion, fashion code |
An Investigation into the Historical Context of a Kimono and Its Sartorial Relevance in Western Societies in 2022Elizabeth J Burton 26(6) 14-31, 2022 DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.14
TitleAn Investigation into the Historical Context of a Kimono and Its Sartorial Relevance in Western Societies in 2022
Elizabeth J Burton DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.14 AbstractWorn by both males and females the kimono is the national dress of Japan. Previous research highlights that this national dress is fading from tradition and evolves to develop with the times and fashion trends. This research aims to investigate what a kimono represents both historically and currently within Western society. The idea of the kimono being more than a national dress representing Japan, the main three themes researched will be (1) Shape (2) Narrative (3) Journey from East to West. Based on both primary and secondary sources this research indicates that there is a strong relationship between the universal increase of kimono wearers in Eastern and Western societies from history through to present day. Primary research is utilised in the form of two types of interviews. Primary outcomes bring a personal perspective to how and why kimono is worn nowadays within Europe. Secondary sources include online lectures held by kimono specialists as well as subject relevant books. From the 19th century where the Dutch were the only European country to trade with Japan, an exchange of fabrics took place which later led to the exchange of: fit, fashion and pattern (primarily within Western womenswear fashion.) This distinct garment never gets discontinued and evolves with social demands within society today. Key Wordskimono, national dress, historical kimono, T-shape kimono, Japanese fashion |
The Parametric Fashion Design Using Grasshopper -Focused on Skirt Silhouette-Jung Min Kim , Jung Soo Lee 26(6) 32-46, 2022 DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.32
TitleThe Parametric Fashion Design Using Grasshopper -Focused on Skirt Silhouette-
Jung Min Kim , Jung Soo Lee DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.32 AbstractThe purpose of this study is to explore a three-dimensional (3D) simulation of skirt shape concepts by manipulating circumferences and lengths via parametric design in the fashion design concept stage. This study also intends to propose a modeling method that can judge and transform the shape through immediate parameter adjustment. We looked at cases that utilized parametric design in other fields of fashion design, reviewed and analyzed the variables used in each study, and constructed parameters suitable to implement skirt fashion design. The traditional design elements required for skirt design, namely waist and hip circumferences, were set as variables in this study. The parametric design was developed to generate ideas of two skirt silhouettes (tight and flared) and three lengths (mini, knee-length, and maxi). To apply the skirt design implemented through variables to the actual 3D human shape, the shape data of women in their 20s and 30s were randomly selected from the 5th human data of Size Korea. Skirt design silhouette modeling was performed by adjusting the variable values according to body type. Parametric design has the potential to help develop design ideas in the field of fashion design, considering the method and characteristics of parameters of the variety of variables and rapid modification. Furthermore, if systematic research on variables and options among fashion design elements is conducted, the possibility of converging them into customization or co-design fashion design processes could be confirmed. Key Wordsfashion design process, generative design, Grasshopper, parametric design, parametric design thinking, PDT |
The Advent of the 19th Century Bicycle and Women's Fashion -Focused on France-Keumhee Lee 26(6) 47-63, 2022 DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.47
TitleThe Advent of the 19th Century Bicycle and Women's Fashion -Focused on France-
Keumhee Lee DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.47 AbstractThis study aimed to examine the changes in women's fashion, focusing on the repercussions that bicycles had on women's life and fashion, centered on France in the 19th century, and then it examines the significance of the period to women's cycling clothing and its contribution to fashion. The research is based on literature and visual materials extracted from 19th century French newspapers, magazines, and posters. As a result of this study, the appearance of bicycles in the 19th century contributed to fashion as follows. First, the need for clothing suitable for outdoor activities promoted development of new designs with practical and functional features. Second, the clothing worn by female cyclists contributed to the introduction and propagation of new clothing, and pioneering wearing trousers. Third, the boom of bicycles in the 1890s led to the expansion of ready-to-wear items in department. The significance of the period to women's cycling clothing in the 19th century France is as follows. First, the era challenged customs and attitudes towards women's bicycle clothing and led to modernization. Second, a new and reasonable clothing design was presented that required a compromise to be accepted by the public. Third, although the clothing reform movement was not active in France, bloomer-style bicycle clothing was popular among fashionable women in Paris, revealing only its visual status as the capital of fashion in the 19th century. Key Wordswomen’s cycling clothing, rational dress reform, 19th century, bicycle, sportswear, bloomer |
Suggestion of a Strategy for Fashion Customization Services -An Integrated Perspective of Narcissism and Brand Prestige-Ha Youn Kim , Yunjeong Kim 26(6) 64-81, 2022 DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.64
TitleSuggestion of a Strategy for Fashion Customization Services -An Integrated Perspective of Narcissism and Brand Prestige-
Ha Youn Kim , Yunjeong Kim DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.64 AbstractMany fashion brands provide sophisticated customization services with advanced technology. Previous studies have revealed that a high level of customization aided by technology positively influences purchase intention. However, since fashion products are society-approved symbols, brand prestige and consumer propensity are expected to affect purchase behavior of customized products. This study aims to identify the purchase decision mechanism of customized products by identifying the relationships among self-expression, brand prestige, narcissistic disposition, and purchase intention. An online survey was conducted on 220 Korean women in their 20s and 30s with customization experience. The results of the data analysis showed that the affluent customization area and narcissistic disposition positively affected purchase intention. Surprisingly, when brand prestige was high and narcissistic disposition was low, the more affluent the customization area, the higher the purchase intention. However, for higher narcissistic disposition, no significant relationship was found between the customization area and purchase intention. This study provides insights into discriminatory customization strategies based on consumer propensity and the brand prestige level when providing customization services in fashion brands. Key Wordscustomization, narcissistic disposition, brand prestige, fashion, technology |
Green Advertisement with Sustainability Claims -Message Credibility and Design Trendiness-Yoo-won Min , Sae Eun Lee , Kyu-hye Lee 26(6) 82-93, 2022 DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.82
TitleGreen Advertisement with Sustainability Claims -Message Credibility and Design Trendiness-
Yoo-won Min , Sae Eun Lee , Kyu-hye Lee DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.82 AbstractSustainability is a significant change that fashion industry has undergone. Marketers and brands are looking for guidance in green advertising to most effectively motivate consumers to purchase sustainable fashion products. This study aims to reveal environmental and cultural sustainability claims on message credibility and purchase intention regarding product trendiness. We performed mediation and moderation analyses, using a 2 (sustainability message: environmental and cultural) x 2 (product design: classic vs. trendy) between-subjects experimental design. The PROCESS MACRO was used for the analysis. Results indicate that environmental claim must appear credible to consumers to motivate them to purchase a product. On the other hand, cultural claim, with and without credibility, affected consumer’s purchase intention. Moreover, cultural claim and trendy design together influenced message credibility and purchase intention, showing a moderated mediation effect. The study indicates that brands should broaden their perspective regarding sustainability by considering cultural factors when providing sustainability claims. Environmental claim should be clear and transparent to avoid green skepticism. Also, it is important to focus on product’s design aspect: making trendy designs. It is difficult to change consumer behavior based only on sustainability value. Thus, brands must coney their consideration of design trends. Theoretical and managerial implications also are discussed. Key Wordssustainability claim, message credibility, product trendiness, green advertising, communication |
Requirements of Fashion as Popular Art in Contemporary CultureSeunghee Suh 26(6) 94-104, 2022 DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.94
TitleRequirements of Fashion as Popular Art in Contemporary Culture
Seunghee Suh DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.94 AbstractThe purpose of this study is to analyze the art world's perspective on popular art and the contact point with pure art and to present the requirements of fashion as a popular art. To analyze the artistic value of fashion, this study analyzed and presented the requirements of art by linking the innate characteristics of fashion premised on mass consumption of popular art. The research method consisted of content analysis focusing on books and papers on art and fashion. A critical perspective on expansion of the artistic field amid the blurred boundaries of art is the basis of a critical comparison between popular art and avant-garde art and a critique of popular art as opposed to value-oriented art. Conversely, as a point of contact with popular art with fine art, art is discussed against the ideological strategy of fine art and the shift in hegemony brought about by erosion of the barrier between art and everyday life. In addition, the non-essentialist perspective contradicts the division theory of popular art. The requirements of fashion as a popular art were analyzed based on the value of self-expression through the aesthetic pursuit of creativity and aesthetic expression, discourse as art, and expansion of modern art from the inessentialist perspective of popular art. Key Wordsart, avant-garde art, fashion, popular art |
Assessment of Stability and Safety of Maskne CosmeticMinjung Kim , Jeonghee Kim 26(6) 105-115, 2022 DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.105
TitleAssessment of Stability and Safety of Maskne Cosmetic
Minjung Kim , Jeonghee Kim DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.105 AbstractWearing a mask is still advised since COVID-19 continues to spread. However, masks may also irritate the skin and cause mask acne, often known as “maskne”, which is a type of acne mechanica caused by friction between the skin and clothing. Therefore, there is a need to develop an effective maskne cosmetic. In this study, we made the maskne cosmetics containing humulus lupulus extract and copper tripeptide-1 and investigated its stability and safety. To measure stability, a centrifugation test and heat-cool cycling were done, and changes in viscosity and pH were measured for 8 weeks. The Cumulative Irritation Test (CIT, WKIRB-202111-HR-096) was performed and positive reactions were determined by the ICDRG criteria. The results indicated that the samples were stable after centrifugation, temperature cycling, viscosity, and pH tests. In addition, cosmetic safety test results revealed that maskne cosmetics containing humulus lupulus extract and copper tripeptide-1 did not cause any skin responses. These findings indicate that prepared maskne cosmetics’ stability and safety were comparable to those of currently available commercial cosmetics. Key Wordsmaskne, acne mechanica, cumulative irritation test, humulus lupulus extract, copper tripeptide-1 |
The Resourcefulness of Sponsored Contents on Social Media -A Netnographic Approach to Customer Inspiration Cues-Hyunjeong Rhee , Kyu-hye Lee 26(6) 116-132, 2022 DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.116
TitleThe Resourcefulness of Sponsored Contents on Social Media -A Netnographic Approach to Customer Inspiration Cues-
Hyunjeong Rhee , Kyu-hye Lee DOI:10.12940/jfb.2022.26.6.116 AbstractFashion marketing activity performed by social media influencers (SMIs) has grown exponentially in the past years. Research regarding their marketing power is often discussed in the context of sponsorship disclosure, in order to overcome obstacles of impending regulations that may endanger the authenticity SMIs are perceived to have compared to traditional marketing agents. Upon recent heterogeneous findings, a netnographic approach was taken to examine the actual sponsored posts of SMIs on Instagram. Based on two representative cases that received media coverage, a qualitative analysis of 1,058 comments on Instagram showed customer inspiration and informational social influence regardless of sponsorship disclosures present. Regarding customer inspiration, high frequency of comments including choice imitation intentions was observed. Under certain conditions, customer responses were focused on the SMI’s expertise irrespective from the brand being endorsed. Findings show future implications from both an academic and industry-focused perspective for future potential of SMIs in fashion marketing. Key Wordssocial media, micro influencers, customer inspiration, fashion, sponsorship disclosure |
