Research on the Correlation between Wavy Modeling of Garment and Fabric PropertiesWen Bin Zhang , Wu Tuo , Jing Ru Liu 8(6) 1-14, 2004
TitleResearch on the Correlation between Wavy Modeling of Garment and Fabric Properties
Wen Bin Zhang , Wu Tuo , Jing Ru Liu DOI: AbstractOn the basis of garment spatial configuration technology, the correlation of fabric properties and garment modeling was studied in this paper. With abundant experimental data, practical modeling and the judgment of fabric properties and physical shape, we analyzed the change rules that restricting all kinds of parameters of fabric properties and garment modeling, and discussed the relation of wavy modeling and all correlated factors of fabric properties. The result showed the basis of choosing fabric for different style garment, which would help designers choosing fabric for modeling design or structure design. Key Wordsgarment spatial configuration technology, fabric property, garment modeling, garment pattern |
A Study on Fashion Illustration Reflecting the MinimalismChun Wha Lyu , Kyu Hwa Cho 8(6) 15-24, 2004
TitleA Study on Fashion Illustration Reflecting the Minimalism
Chun Wha Lyu , Kyu Hwa Cho DOI: AbstractThis study is to propose the minimalism, which swept the modern society of the 20th century, in fashion illustration with an asymmetric composition adding the globalized oriental taste in the 21th century. To do this, this study reviews various literatures and real materials reflecting the minimalism in art, architecture and fashion, defines aesthetic characteristics of the minimalism in each area, then based on the results, creates a basic unit of a fashion illustration and finally bring 6 works of the unit together to an integral fashion illustration while adding several oriental features. Key Wordsminimalism, oriental, asymmetric composition, fashion illustration |
Development of Elderly Women`s Dress Form According to Their Somatotypes for the Silver Apparel IndustryChu Yeon Suh 8(6) 25-38, 2004
TitleDevelopment of Elderly Women`s Dress Form According to Their Somatotypes for the Silver Apparel Industry
Chu Yeon Suh DOI: AbstractThe purpose of this study is to develop a dress form for elderly women according to their somatotype to be used for improving the fit of garments and patterns. Analyzing each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the 4 somatotypes in most of measure items. Bend-forward Group had shorter front length items. Abdomen-fat Group had lower upper-body values than Average Group and similar lower-body values to Fat Group. In most items except height, Fat Group had the biggest values. Analyzing the mean cross-section according to the section measurement parts, no difference existed in shoulder part and under bust part. However, in upper bust, bust, waist, abdomen, high hip, and hip parts, a significant difference existed. Also, according to the results of the mean cross-section as well as the average cross overlap section for each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the four somatotypes. Thus, Abdomen-fat Group and Fat Group were similar, while Bend-forward Group and Average Group were alike. According to the increase of age, lower body tended to have more conspicuous changes. Analyzing the profile of somatotypes, there existed a obvious significant difference among the 4 somatotypes, implying that the characteristics of somatotype need to be reflected when to develop dress forms for elderly women. Therefore, these differences must be an essential factor in pattern design. Comparing the current dress form with the dress form developed with simulation, we could find that a dress form developed for elderly women which reflects the characteristics of body shape is much better than a dress form developed by simple size variation such as small, medium and large size divisions to improve the fit of garments and pattern designs. Key Wordselderly women`s somatotypes, cross-section measurement, bend-forward group, abdomen-fat group, fat group, average group |
A Study on Surrealistic Expression in Modern Fashion -Focusing on Surrealistic Fashion in 1990s-Chieu Kyung Yang 8(6) 39-56, 2004
TitleA Study on Surrealistic Expression in Modern Fashion -Focusing on Surrealistic Fashion in 1990s-
Chieu Kyung Yang DOI: AbstractAt the outset, surrealism starts from pure art, but surrealism has greatly influenced commercial art and fashion circles, more so than any other genre of art. The critical thinking methods of surrealism and its mode of expression continues to influence fashion theory extensively. Even now, surrealism may be found in the designs presented in fashion circles and is still expected for future lines. Surrealism in modern fashion has been reborn, newly integrated and transformed, based on the features of Surrealism paintings. The characteristics of its forms can be found in a combination of modern material, modern design and new skills and the classical items : bodyform molding context of architecture, experimental and sex-appealing of body. Expression was made by borrowing natural motives and recreating natural fabrics while the existing typical idea about clothes was destructed, with the boundary of patterns changed. Expression was also made by mixing items, uniting future images, and using up-to-date functional techniques. This study is significant that up-to-date technological culture expands cyber-space and increases surrealistic expressions by combined heterogeneous materials, thus arousing much interest. The purpose of this study is to determine interrelationship between how surrealism developed and what formative properties those clothes affected by surrealism obtained in the 1990s. Key WordsSurrealistic fashion, Depaysment, Automatism, Paradox, Hybridization |
An Analysis on Structures of Man`s Costume in Byzantine EmpireJeom Soon Yoon 8(6) 57-67, 2004
TitleAn Analysis on Structures of Man`s Costume in Byzantine Empire
Jeom Soon Yoon DOI: AbstractThe forms of man`s costumes in Byzantine Empire were changed according to each composition of costumes. Those forms of costumes had common features of each period when costumes were included. At the same time, however, the fact that differences existed in accordance with a social position including gender, class, occupation, etc. even though in same period were showed. Analytic elements of man`s costumes in Byzantine Empire were selected by important factors. This showed the meanings of position and class in that time. The kinds of analytic elements in man`s outwear were various but the forms of costumes were not developed because christianity influenced the forms of clothing in the Middle Ages. As the result of synthesis, the main factor of man`s costumes was a tunic in Byzantine Empire of the Middle Ages The phases of the times were reflected on the structure of man`s costumes in Byzantine Empire. In particular, religious feature was emphasized, and analytic elements of costumes having meanings showed the features of the society at the Middle Ages. For example, a central analytic element of man`s costume, an outer garment was a tunic style of H-silhouette that hid the body line. This was influenced by the phases of the times. Namely, the costume stands as a symbol of the times, and also is a cultural sign that reflects phases like politics, economy, religion. Key Wordssignifier, signified, paradigmatic structure, syntagmatic structure, denotation, connotation |
Characterization of Luster Properties of Nylon 6 Hollow Filament Yarn Woven Fabric -Three-dimensional Simulation of Hollow Filament-Jong Jun Kim , Dong Won Jeon , Jee Hae Jeon 8(6) 68-77, 2004
TitleCharacterization of Luster Properties of Nylon 6 Hollow Filament Yarn Woven Fabric -Three-dimensional Simulation of Hollow Filament-
Jong Jun Kim , Dong Won Jeon , Jee Hae Jeon DOI: AbstractHollow filament yarns provide better warmth to the touch, lighter in weight, increased opacity, and subtle luster compared to the regular synthetic filament yarns. However, luster properties of textile fibers or fabrics are often difficult to characterize, partly due to the fineness of the surface texture, the anisotropic nature of the weave structure, the complexity of the fiber array comprising a yarn, and the fiber structure itself. In this study, the fabric surface luster image was analyzed using image analysis methods after image acquisition. The hollow filament fiber was modeled using a three-dimensional modeling software. It was then ray-traced for comparing the virtual luster images of the hollow fiber and the regular fiber models based on shading models including photon mapping. The luster object size of the actual hollow filament fabric was smaller than that of the regular filament fabric. The shape of the luster object of the hollow filament fabric was dual peak type while that of the regular filament was single. Key WordsHollow Filament, Nylon 6, Luster, Three-dimensional Modeling |
Walking Patterns According to the Room of Shoes Sizes -Focusing on Female Collegians on Busan-Boo Ja Shim 8(6) 78-89, 2004
TitleWalking Patterns According to the Room of Shoes Sizes -Focusing on Female Collegians on Busan-
Boo Ja Shim DOI: AbstractWith 100 collegians residing in Busan, a shoes wearing survey was held. Out of the subjects, 50 women collegians showing some interest in fashion sneakers were chosen to reveal the effects of shoes size changes on walking patterns and wearing sense. This study focused on the fitness of sneakers produced the following results: 1. Survey Results of Shoes Wearing The subjects had some room in wearing sneakers or athletic shoes, including 20~30mm (33%). Just 25% of the subjects reported about the experience of falling, and 67.6% had difficulty walking on downhills. 50% felt feet fatigue difference when wearing fitting and unfitting shoes. 2. Analysis of Walking Patterns & Survey Results of Wearing Sense No significance was found among shoes sizes in left and right step angles. Step width measurement revealed no significance among shoes sizes. Significance (p≤.05) existed among shoes sizes in steps and strides. Significance (p≤.001) was noticed among shoes sizes in wearing sense. Key Wordswalking patterns, step angle, step width, steps and strides, room of shoes sizes |
The Task of the Fashion Designer in Different Types of Domestic Women`s Apparel Brands -Focusing on the Fashion Merchandising Process-Hae Sook Kwon , Eun A Lee 8(6) 90-102, 2004
TitleThe Task of the Fashion Designer in Different Types of Domestic Women`s Apparel Brands -Focusing on the Fashion Merchandising Process-
Hae Sook Kwon , Eun A Lee DOI: AbstractThe purpose of this research is to identify the phases of the fashion merchandising process and the range of the fashion designer`s work as well as performing degree at each stage according to the brand types of domestic women`s apparel. The preliminary research was conducted with the chief designers of five woman`s apparel manufactures located in Seoul and the questionnaires were collected from 192 fashion designers. They were measured by the five point Likert-type scales. For a data analysis, the Pearson`s Correlation, ANOVA, Sheffe Test, MANOVA were used with SPSS V. 11.0. The results are as follows; 1. The steps which fashion designers of domestic apparel brand take in fashion merchandising process have been identified in 7 stages- Environment Information, Target Market Planning, Design Planning, Design Development, Price Settlement, Presentation & Line Release, Production. 2. The task achievement level of fashion designers in fashion merchandising process differs in brand types as well as in fashion merchandising stages. In NB, the designer`s work was conducted in order of Design Planning(M=4.58)→Presentation & Line release(M=4.31)→Environment Information(M=3.83)→Target Market Planning(M=3.13). In DB, in order of Price Settlement (M=4.80)→Production(M=4.33)→Design Development(M=4.27)→Design Planning(M=3.77)→Presentation & Line release(M=3.20)→Environment Information (M2.70). In GB, in order of Production(M=4.38)→Design Planning(M=4.22)→Price Settlement(M4.16)→Environment Information(M=3.83)→Merchandising Target Market (M=3.72)→Design Development(M=3.65). 3. Considering the other factors such as sales, the amount of owning shops, item amounts that are related to the company size, this study shows that only the brand type affects designer`s task achievement. Key WordsNational brand, Designer brand, Generic brand, Fashion merchandising process, Task of fashion designer |
Analysis of Voter`s Acceptance to Female Politician`s AppearanceTae Soon Kwon , Cheui Kyung Yang 8(6) 103-112, 2004
TitleAnalysis of Voter`s Acceptance to Female Politician`s Appearance
Tae Soon Kwon , Cheui Kyung Yang DOI: AbstractA Politician Appearance Acceptance Model (PAAM model) was formed and designed based on an analysis of how the electorate would accept a female politician. The PAAM model evaluated factors which influenced the voter`s view of the female politician based on appearance. Causative factors were assessed that impacted acceptance based on appearance and analyzed whether voting was influenced by the appearance image; appearance image preferences for a female politician included the classic, dramatic, romantic and natural images. Through validations, the appearance image and competency had a causative factor that contributed to the acceptance of the politician image. The Classic Image demonstrated the strongest and most important image among the appearance images. As voters were more interested in the appearance image of a female politician, more emphasis and weight was on the appearance image during the voting selection process. Key Wordsnurse uniform, military uniform, domestic service, nun, nanny |
Qualitative Study on Body Image and Appearance Behaviors in the Diet CenterSeung Hee Lee 8(6) 113-122, 2004
TitleQualitative Study on Body Image and Appearance Behaviors in the Diet Center
Seung Hee Lee DOI: AbstractThe purpose of this study was to examine and understand body image, appearance behaviors, and eating disturbances among females in the Diet Center. Subjects for this research were 40 females enrolled at the Diet Center in Seoul. They were interviewed for this study using an interview schedule at September in 2004. As a result, most of the subjects (87%) were dissatisfied with their bodies, especially their lower body such as hip, thighs, legs, stomach. Subjects tended to use dieting and fasting (46.3%) as the most common appearance management behaviors in relation to the body parts. Make-up (32.9%) was also used as routine appearance behaviors, while 37.5% of subjects have had cosmetic surgery on eyes, nose and liposuction. Sixty percent of subjects had participated in Diet center programs more than twice. This may mean that society pressures women to have a slim body, which then will result in more self-confidence. Subjects tend to engage in unhealthy eating behaviors, such as ``fasting``, ``inducing vomit``, ``using diet pills or laxatives``, and ``after chewing, spit out``. Based on these results, socio-cultural body image regarding ideal beauty would be discussed. Key WordsBody image, Appearance Behavior, Eating Disturbances, Diet Center |
A Study of Fashion Expression on the end of 20th Century -Focusing on Distopia-Young Kyoung Song 8(6) 123-136, 2004
TitleA Study of Fashion Expression on the end of 20th Century -Focusing on Distopia-
Young Kyoung Song DOI: AbstractThe purpose of this the end of 20th century fashion about various phenomenon of distopia. This study have the analysis and consideration through the elements and peculiarity of distopia. This study give us the various figures of distopia st fashion as well as the common features of distopia. The study method refers to sundry records, thesis, fashion magazine, publication, the collection works and internet. It is as follows. ``Distopia`` prefix to dis of Utopia and means unknown future. Distopia trends towards future negatively. The end of 20th century, it is well brought out various cultures. Movie, novel and pop culture have effect on end of the 20th fashion with a view of distopia. It is the fear and uncertainty of the future. The characters of distopia through the works are divided into formative characteristics and aesthetics meaning. The future fashion of distopia expression mixed and various cultural life, also the mixed of utopia and distopia fashion. Distopia stimulates the designers to the new expression and expose their new areas. Key Wordsdistopia, exaggerated silhouette, new materials, achromatic colors, mixed up |
Effect of Rinsing after Mordanting on the Air-permeability and Dyeing of Fabrics with Cochineal DyestuffHo Jin Na , Dong Won Jeon , Jong Jun Kim 8(6) 137-145, 2004
TitleEffect of Rinsing after Mordanting on the Air-permeability and Dyeing of Fabrics with Cochineal Dyestuff
Ho Jin Na , Dong Won Jeon , Jong Jun Kim DOI: AbstractAccording to the experimental results, it has been reported by several researchers that the air-permeability values of the fabrics mostly decreased by the mordanting during the dyeing procedure. The exact quantitative information, however, has not been presented so far. In this study, the change of the fabric air-permeability was investigated quantitatively. At the same time, the change of the fabric air-permeability according to the dyeing procedure. In order to investigate the possibility of the detachment of the metal ions on the fiber or fabric surface, the change of the air-permeability was investigated after several rinsing of the mordanted fabrics. By comparing the color differences of the cochineal dyed fabrics which were subjected to rinsing procedure after mordanting, the effect of the rinsing of the mordanted fabrics on the dyeing of fabrics was investigated. At the range of mordant concentration, 2% Cu, 2% Sn, 2% Fe, 2% Cr, 5% Al, the metal ions are not excessively absorbed on the fiber surface. Also, any remarkable detachment of the metal ions does not accompany after the mordanting with the subsequent rinsing procedure. Key WordsMordant, Rinsing, Cochineal, Air-permeability |
